Kook + Jet Powered Surf Board = Bikini Atoll Take 2

Tired of paddling? Ever thought about strapping a jet engine to your surfboard? Well, you're in luck, because the "Wavejet" surfboard is coming to a surf shop near you.

Well, not quite. The boards cost around $4,500 and will only be sold at specialized dealers, but kooks everywhere will now be able to live the dream of riding a surboard without ever having to paddle. Yay!

The boards utilize a lithium-powered jet engine that functions much like the propulsion system on a PWC -- sucking up water and shooting it out in a continuously rapid motion.

The board can apparently top out at a "blistering" 12 mph.  Check out this link: Jet-Powered Surfboard

SUPS are dangerous enough, now I need to worry about a jet-powered longboard in the line-up too?

Honestly, this thing is just a pound of TNT away from being a torpedo. If you're going to buy/ride one of these things, make sure to remember to bring your skoal, cowboy hat, and goverment-issued survival kit with you, because you're basically a 21st century version of the lovable Major T.J. Kong from "Dr. Strangelove." Good luck amigo, and make sure to get those Roosskies.

Weighing in on the Malibu Controversy...

Alright, so Surfline just posted an article concerning the new dredging project that's gonna occur in June at the Malibu Lagoon. Close to 90,000 cubic-yards of mud and sand is planned to be removed (the walkway bridges and islands will also be removed in the process), in the hopes of restoring a bit more of a natural balance to the constantly stagnant (and consistently stinky) body of water.

Removing the sand will cause more water to flow through the lagoon, essentially flushing it out. This should help improve water quality both on and offshore, since the lagoon empties into the line up at Malibu Beach.

However, despite the fact that City of Malibu, the Surfrider foundation, and Heal the Bay have given their collective thumbs-up for the project (they gave the go-ahead back in November), a few local surfers and environmentalists are taking a firm stand against the clean up.

These locals (such as the great Allen Sarlo) say that the project will not only make the water quality worse, but it will also irrevocably damage the surf as well. Since the initial dredging project in '83, these same locals have often complained that Third and Second point were altered so dramatically that the surf has never been the same. A new dredging project, they say, will only make things worse.

Honestly, after reading the Surfline article, (and the Los Angeles Time piece that covered this issue in November) I'm confident that this project is the right thing to do. I trust that the Surfrider foundation and the Heal the Bay Org. would not support a project if they believed it would have negative environmental consequences. This is the right thing to do. 

The Surfer: Categorizing the Unknown

In The History of Surfing, Matt Warshaw described attempts during the 1960s at creating a census of American surfers. Rough estimates varied widely: foam-maker Gordon Clark estimated that there were around 200,000 total surfers in the country, while Newsweek generously estimated that there were close to 1,000,000 wave riders nationwide.


According to Warshaw, the reason for the varied numbers was simple: it’s difficult to define exactly what a surfer is. Is a surfer someone who owns a board? Or what about someone who only surfs during the summer? For that matter, what about a sponger or body surfer? Do they even count?

Of the many who have sought to answers these particular questions, no one has offered a more poignant conclusion than the mainstream media.


If you want to read more, follow the link below to Surfermag.com:

My article for Surfer Mag!

My interview with Scott Ditzenberger

Scott Ditzenberger is the co-director of Out Of Place, a documentary that covers surfing, surfers, and surf culture in Cleveland, Ohio. The film premiered at the New York Surf Film Festival in 2009, where it won the highly coveted viewer’s choice award. Scott is also one of the few and the brave to surf Lake Erie year round—even when there’s ice in the line up.


Read more at:
Surfinghandbook.com

Stuff Stefan Likes...

Hi everybody! Here is a article entitled "Stuff we like" from the surfinghandbook. Check it out!

Welcome to our first monthly installment of “Stuff We Like.”  Every month we are going to ask our writers, contributors, and friends what surfing related thing they have been stoked about in the past month.  It could be a piece of equipment, a book, a movie, an organization, or even just something like getting up for the dawn patrol.

Want to throw your two cents in?  Send a paragraph about something you like toadmin@surfinghandbook.com and we’ll add the best one each month from our readers.

So without further ado, here’s some stuff we like:

Stefan Slater

The History Of Surfing

For Christmas, my parents gave me The History of Surfingby Matt Warshaw. It is an incredible book, as it covers the entire history of the sport from its origins in Peru (yes, I said Peru) to the exploits of Duke Khanamoku, the first wave ridden by Greg Noll at Waimea, the birth of the shortboard, all the way up to the current events of today. Rather remarkably, Warshaw is able to condense nearly 2,000 years of history down to 500 very well written pages—which is a pretty impressive feat. As the former editor-in-chief of Surfer, he understands surf culture as a whole, so he is able to utilize the history of the sport in such a way as to allow the reader to comprehend the development of the character and demeanor of the modern surfer. Overall, the book is a wonderful read.  I just finished the section on Malibu point in the 1940’s, and I’m infatuated with the idea of paddling out at First Point on a vintage 50-pound redwood board. Not so keen on the butt-hugging trunks they wore back then though. Doesn’t leave a lot to the imagination… if you know what I mean.

Want to read what others are stoked about?
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/01/stuff-we-like/

LA Surf Spot Review: Topanga Beach

The hippie sister of Malibu point, Topanga is not quite as “groovy” as her more famous sibling, but she still has her moments. Topanga is your classic point break, and when the stars (and conditions) all align perfectly, she can offer up some really fun semi-hallow rights. You just have to deal with the crowds, the pollution, the sometimes-gruff locales, and the increased chance that you might grow dreadlocks and buy a Prius.

Location: Heading south on PCH, Topanga State beach is located at the base of Topanga Canyon. The parking lot for the beach is just before Topagna Canyon Blvd, across the highway from The Reel Inn Fresh Fish restaurant.

Setup: Topanga has a sandbar/cobblestone bottom that’s fed directly by the Topanga Lagoon, and with the right swell and tide, it churns out forgiving but very workable rights. Sometimes the rights can extend pretty far. In fact, according to Surfline.com, during the big El Nino storm in 1982-83, surfer Donie Wilson rode all way from outside of Topanga to the point near The Chart House—an incredible distance of over 300 yards. Cool huh?

Swell and Tide: Just like her big sis, Topanga is all about south swells. Wests can also get in there as well, but they either have to be severely angled, or absolutely enormous. Just like most other point breaks in the area, Topanga tends to do best on a medium tide. Also, Topanga is a little more exposed to swell direction than Malibu, so she might actually break when Malibu point is a bit too sheltered from oncoming swell.

Access: Ah, well, the access situation is also similar to Malibu. Parking is easy (you can park at the lot or across the Highway); it’s finding space for you and your board out in the agua that’s tough. Topanga is the closest point break to Santa Monica and downtown L.A., so the line up is often very, very crowded.

Pros: Grumpy comments aside, Topanga can actually be a great spot. The wave is pretty fun and fairly easy, and the local crew there is quite talented. Access is a breeze, and there are plenty of nearby places to hang out and grab a bite to eat.

Cons: Heavy runoff from Topanga Canyon has been known to wash grungy hippies straight into the line up. Despite the "peace and free love" vibe though, the locals can actually be rather unforgiving of beginners and obvious newcomers. Also, the Topanga Lagoon is just as toxic as the one in Malibu, and it can sometimes empty directly into the line up. And much like the rest of the North Bay, Topanga can be rather swell challenged most of the year.

Surf fact: South of Topanga, nearby Will Roger’s State Beach, is the site of the former Port of Los Angeles. Prior to the city’s acquisition of the San Pedro Harbor (now the Port of Los Angeles), Los Angeles was badly in need of a port. So, the city actually built a wharf near Santa Monica. Let’s just say that it wasn’t very successful, thus explaining why it no longer exists.

When is it too small to paddle out?

Photo by Michelle Meiklejohn and freedigitalphotos.net

It's a personal question that every surfer must contemplate. When are the waves too small to paddle out? When are the waves so small—so absolutely meager—that paddling out is a complete waste of time?

My personal answer to the question is simple: for me, paddling out is never really a waste of time. From flat to 10 feet, getting out in the water is always fun. When I am not out in the water, I tend to miss it terribly. As soon as I get in, I feel rejuvenated, even if the waves are relatively small.

Yet, I’ve talked to a great number of other surfers who are rather dour when it comes to puny wave heights. They’ll tell me: “Oh, I won’t even paddle out if it is around knee high. Honestly, at that height, what tricks can you do? Where can you go? It is a complete waste of time!” Why, I’ve even talked to a few surfers who've told me they won’t even contemplate paddling out unless it’s definitely overhead!

Now, in their defense, most of the surfers I’m referring to were from either California or Hawaii, and the waves are rarely flat for long there. So, it is reasonable for them to miss a few sessions when the waves are small, because lucky for them, chances are the waves will be much bigger (and better) in the near future.

But how does one improve as a waterman if they’re not in the water? From my experience as a surfer, cross training activities like skateboarding or running will help with balance and fitness, but the ocean experience I glean when I surf is irreplaceable, and can’t be substituted by other land-based pursuits.

Take this for example. Recently, I was reading Surfline’s interview with John Florence. For those of you who are unaware, Florence is the youngest surfer (he is 18 years old) ever to ever compete in the Billabong Pipe Masters, which is quite incredible when you consider the conditions that he is surfing in.

Anyway, one of the questions that the interviewer asked John was whether or not he commits to surfing waves that are knee-high or less, and you know what he said? Absolutely.

For an athlete like Florence, who surfs some of the most difficult and challenging waves in the world, gaining surf experience is an absolute must. No matter what the conditions are, it is imperative for a committed surfer to get out in the water if he or she wants to advance his or her skill set. Whether it is flat or double overhead, spending time in the water will give you important ocean experience. And honestly, how could that hurt your ability to surf? So next time, if you are standing on the beach looking at tiny waves, and you are contemplating skipping your session, get out there anyway. What you gain from that time in the water could prove to be quite invaluable.

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

The hawk flew over the hood of my car.  I slowed down a bit, and watched as it perched on a fencepost, a squirming rattlesnake in its talons.  The snake’s tail flailed around desperately—with obvious terror—as the hawk bent down, and in one swift motion tore off its head. The hawk then began to voraciously rip away chunks of flesh, as the snake’s tail continued to writhe about sporadically. It eventually stopped moving.

That was the first thing I saw when I arrived at Big Sur.

Named long ago by the insightful Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portola for its vast uncivilized expanses south of the relative security of Monterrey, el pais grande del sur (or Big Sur) stretches nearly 70 miles from San Simeon to Carmel.

Even with the introduction of paved roads in the 1920’s, and electricity in the 1950’s, Big Sur is still a wild place, complete with colossal redwoods, roving mountain lions, and daunting cliffs straight from “The Land Of The Lost.” That rugged beauty has attracted pilgrims of all kind over the years: from common tourists and naturalists, to artists like Jack Kerouac, and even movie stars like Rita Hayworth; all drawn to this shrine of unadulterated natural magnificence like moths to a flame.

...

To read the rest, please click the link below!

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

LA TIMES: Chasing Waves in the Pacific

LA times is running this cool bit about chasing waves in the Pacific. There are some nice vids, diagrams on measuring waves, and some bios on famous big wave surfers. Check it out!

Chasing the swell... click here!

The SUP Invasion

Recently, after a prolonged tour of use and abuse, I was forced to take my two trusty shortboards into my local shop for some ding repair. After learning that the slightly horrific repairs would take up to two weeks, I was somewhat dismayed, since they’re the boards I tend to ride the most. However, I decided to take advantage of the situation by dusting off my old Malibu 9.0 log and getting in a bit of much needed longboard practice.

Read on at OFF THE LIP.

Click me: The SUP Invasion

Patch em up: Wetsuit Repair Part Deux

All right so, I finally got the neoprene cement in the mail, and now I can finally finish my patch up project.

The cement (pictured left) is rather strong stuff (and just so you know, extremely flammable). If you ever need to make a home made bomb--to fight zombies and the like of course--you could transform this gunk into a potent demolition tool faster than you can say "pipe bomb."

Anyway, a little off tangent, I apologize. Once you have your cement, go ahead and take your wetsuit to a nice, ventilated area. Unless you want to be higher than Jimmy when he lit his guitar on fire, so in that case, knock your self out (no pun intended). Make sure you are wearing something to protect yourself from the fumes, and gloves to protect your hands. Coat the areas that you sewed together once. Wait 5-10 minutes until it dries, and then coat again. You should be pretty much set!

On a side not, as I unfortunately found out, a little cement goes a long way. I figured that the more cement I slapped on my suit, the more watertight it would be. And well even though that might have been the case, the seams now have large clumps of cement that are quite irritating to the touch. So please, if you are going to do this yourself, use the cement sparingly.

Surf Traffic

The pages of Surfer often keep us surfers sane when, for one reason or another, we become landlocked and are unable surf.  Those ocean-less days can be painful, and Surfer has rescued me on more than one occasion from filling my bathtub with saltwater, donning a wetsuit, and making my own waves.

During one of the many recent rainstorms we had here in Los Angeles—when the waters offshore have the consistency and smell of fresh toxic sludge—I found myself quenching my thirst for waves by flipping through this month’s issue of Surfer. There was an interesting article about the most crowded surf spots in the world, and lo and behold, my personal favorite surf spot (First Point) was listed as number two.

I felt a little pang of remorse as I read the article (since I have so many positive memories of surfing there) but unfortunately, Surfer was spot on. Despite its wonderful waves and historical significance to the surfing community, Malibu is extremely crowded. Often times, when the waves are pumping, Malibu mimics the DMV—long lines, bad attitudes, and of course, no matter how early you get up, you’re never the first one there.

To make matters worse, Zuma Jay is supposedly contemplating opening a shop at the Malibu Pier, so those flocks of tourist/kooks that visit Malibu beach every year have easier access to renting boards and gear. Absolutely no unintended consequences, right? Of course not! Well, other than the possible increase in the number of beheadings due to loose nine-foot logs, but that’s not a big deal at all. Putting a surf shop at the Malibu Pier is like opening a school crosswalk on a NASCAR Speedway—it will only create more speed bumps for apathetic locals that really don't have time to stop.

While it may be to late to save Malibu from being one of the most crowded surf spots in the world, it is important that the local surfing community properly educated beginners on surf etiquette, in order to save my beloved beach from becoming a literal death trap. I hope for a day when I can go to Malibu Beach, and not fear being knocked unconscious by a run away board. Will that happen? Maybe not in my lifetime.

But a man can dream.

Patch 'em up: Wetsuit repair part 1

Okay, so its winter time here LA, and that means 4/3's from now on. Unfortunately, because of the unseasonably cold water we've been having lately, I have been wearing my 4/3 quite a bit. So much so in fact, that I have torn two of the neck portions of my suit. With my Big Sur trip coming up ( and all that cold Central California water) I figured I needed to patch up my suit in order to keep from getting hypothermia.

After doing some research, I found that I could use one of two methods to patch up my suit. The first one involved using a urethane sealer or neoprene cement to seal the hole. The other method involved sewing up the tear first, and then patching it over with a sealer or cement. The former option could only be used for a gap that was approx the size of a person's fingernail, so anything bigger (like the two gnarly tears in my suit), would have to utilize the latter technique, and thus be sewn up first and then patched over with a sealer.

I started off by going to Jo-Ann fabric store for a needle and thread. I bought the thickest thread they had (meant for sewing leather jackets or heavy carpets). I was told I could also use fishing line or dental floss to sew up the tears, because they are more water resistant than thread, but I figured that the thread would be easier on the fabric and a little more forgiving during the actual sewing process.  I also went online and bought Neoprene cement, as opposed to the urethane sealer. The sealer dries quicker, but the cement is much more permanent, so I figured that was the best bet.

The sewing was relatively easy, although I needed help from my mom with the starting and finishing knots.   All I had to do was thread the needle, tie a knot on the end, and then while holding the two tears together, I sewed them using the "spiraling technique" (which was basically an over-under method.) Always make sure to start sewing from the inside of the wetsuit!

The cement is coming in the mail, so once I get it I will show you how I finish the patching process!

LA Surf spots: Surfrider State Beach (a.k.a Malibu point/beach)

There are few surf spots in this world that are as revered or as hated as Malibu beach. Many surfers claim that Malibu is the ideal pointbreak. Others argue that it’s an overcrowded cesspool. What cannot be disputed though, is that Malibu point has seen its fair share of surfing history. From Tom Blake, to Gidget, to Miki Dora and Allen Sarlo, the waves at Malibu have been drawing surfers since the 1920’s. The reasoning for that is simple: the sand and cobblestone bottom is so ideally laid out that it churns out perfectly shaped rights like a machine.
To read the rest please visit: Dailystoke.com

Searching For Waves In Italy

Italy is world-renowned for its history and culture. Every year, millions of tourists visit the land of gastronomical wonders, just to get a taste of the exalted Italian dulce vida. They walk the busy streets of Rome, gaze in astonishment at David, engorge themselves with fresh pasta, and of course, play chicken with the infamous Vespa.

Many of those tourists and foreigners though, are unaware of the fact that Italy, aside from being a bastion of culture, refinement, and indigestion, actually has surf. Within the past twenty years, surf magazines like Surfer have revealed that the Italian coastline does occasionally have decent waves. Yet surfing in Italy is still very much a young sport, and hasn’t (according to the understanding of the global surfing community) really gained much of a following.

To read the rest please visit:

http://www.surfinghandbook.com

I think I'm gonna glow in the dark...

Ah, the first big rain storm of the year. Refreshing, no? Well, for surfers like myself, that first rain storm is more of a giant toxic bane than a invigorating boon. Most breaks in L.A. receive a heavy dosing of pollution after the first large rain, because all of the trash, organic waste, and hazardous chemicals that tends to clog up our sewers and storm drains gets pumped straight into the ocean. Most water treatment plants (like the local Tapia Water Treatment plant) aren't able to handle the extra load, so the only constructive thing they are able to do is wave at the trash as it floats on by them and straight into the ocean. If you need to check the water quality at your local break, go to this site: http://www.publichealth.lacounty.gov/phcommon/public/eh/water_quality/beach_grades.cfm.


Try to avoid turning into a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle from all the runoff, and I will see you in the water!

Malibu Beach

Took this picture Tuesday, "vintage look" courtesy of Parlato Graphic Design Firm

Review: Doc's Proplugs

A few months back, I went to the doctor's office complaining of an earache. The doctor checked out my right ear, then my left, gave me a funny look, and asked if I spent anytime in the ocean. I wanted to say a joke about hunting a white whale, but I let that go, and told her that I was an avid surfer. Turns out that I have the early stages of surfer's ear. Cold water and harsh wind has actually caused bones to grow in my ear canal, and if I don't take care of it now, I may have to get surgery.

The doctor basically said that that I had two options available to help me alleviate my ear issue. I could either a) stop surfing (fat chance) or b) surf with ear plugs. The first plugs I tried were from the pharmacy at Gelsons, and they were an epic fail. That was probably because they cost around $5. So, the next time around I decided to shell out some extra dinero and purchase ear plugs designed for surfers. Doc's pro plugs caught my eye, mainly because that doctor who invented them is actually a surfer (not to mention that Santa Cruz surfer Ken "Skindog" Collins swears by them).

The plugs are shaped to cover the ear canal and the "crest of the helix" (that part of the ear just outside of the ear canal). There is also a tiny hole in each plug, so that you can equalize your ears if necessary with minimal discomfort. The plugs are meant to fit snugly, so that they can minimize water and wind entering the ear canal. With that being said, the plugs come in a variety of sizes and need to be custom fitted to the user's ears. That can be done either via a ear specialist, or you can drop 30$ and purchase a package of four plugs in different sizes (Small, Medium, Large, Extra-Large), to find a plug that fits your ears best.

Field test results: I have used the plugs for a week now, and I will say that they have helped dramatically. Finding the best fit did take some time, but when the water is freezing (last session I actually saw my breath) the ear plugs help minimize the ear ache. They do seem to let some water in when I duck dive, but with further testing and trying different sizes, I think that issue can be resolved.

I will check back in a week or so to give an update on how the plugs are working out!

Will a paddle make me cooler?

To SUP or not to SUP: that is the question. Just like Hamlet, I too have slings and arrows on the mind. Oh, and paddles too. Lately I have been tormented by the "sport" of stand up paddling. For all of you unfamiliar with the preferred pastime of Satan, it involves a surfer utilizing an enormous board, and instead of lying prone and stroking, said surfer remains standing for the entire session, and uses a paddle to slowly chug along. 


Now SUP has been around for awhile, and it has gained quite a following. Before I start attacking the institution, it is important to point out some of its good points. For instance, you can build up your upper body to Laird Hamilton proportions. You can also see approaching sets miles out to sea. And above all, if a shark swims by, the only thing he can nibble on is your paddle and not your feet.

However, my fault with stand up paddling is not with the sport, but with its followers. SUP has become very popular, so much so, that people with little surf experience are picking it up. In other words, individuals who have little understanding of surf etiquette, the ocean, or surfing as a whole are picking up a sport that allows them to dominate a line up; they can see farther out, take off earlier and paddle faster than any non-SUP. All in all, it just isn't fair for anybody else. 


Yet I was hit with a sudden realization on the nature of SUP when I first witnessed the bizarre sight of a skateboarder using a paddle to coast along a sidewalk. That's right, a paddle. Just like Huck Finn. Except there was no raft, no mighty Mississippi, or even... (bad word) Jim. 


Mark Twain aside, the land paddler pointed out a very important attribute of mankind, and that was that we as a society love to make our lives easy. We invented a remote for the T.V. so we didn't have to get up from the couch to change the channel. We invented the microwave so we could make our meals quicker. Hell, we even invented peanut butter and jelly in the same container. Hopefully though, that  latter invention will go the way of other misguided inventions like the helicopter ejection seat or the Snuggie for dogs and just disappear. 


The paddle is just another gimmicky invention designed to make surfing, and now skateboarding, easier. What is important to remember with SUP, and now SUS too, is that the rider should be willing to participate in the sport sans paddle. If they are able to do so, it shows that said rider has a passion for the sport itself, and doesn't need any sort of new fad to keep them skating or surfing. If the rider can't part with the paddle, then he or she must go the way of the dodo, and get hunted down by Europeans and giant rats, because that is what they honestly deserve.

Zuma surf spot review

Three miles of beautiful sand? Check. More barreling peaks than you can shake your stick at? Check.  Summertime crowds so intense it’ll make you wanna dunk your head in a porta-potty? Make that a big fat check. Zuma has it all: great surf, plenty of parking, and actual sunbathing girls. Its sandy shoreline is exposed to nearly every possible swell angle, and the waves can get pretty good from time to time, offering up steep take offs and the occasional barrel.

Location: Heading north on PCH, Zuma is just after Heathercliff Rd., at the bottom of a large hill. The entrance to the parking lot is one the left.

Setup: From the cliff at Big Dume all the way to Broad beach, Zuma is one large beach break. The sandy bottom is constantly shifting with the tides, winds, and waves, so the lineups are always moving and rather spread out.

Swell and tide: Whatever the swell direction, it will most likely break here. Swells from the south or southwest tend to do better, but wests, northwests, and windswells can often work there way in was well. Honestly, Zuma is exposed to everything Neptune can throw her way. However, as with most beach breaks, she will do better with a higher tide, and as much offshore wind as possible.  Most of the time, the waves here are small mushy close outs, but with the right tide, swell, and bottom conditions, Zuma can be downright epic. Keep in mind though, anything overhead (without the ideal conditions) will pretty much close out.

Access: Well, you can pay to park in the parking lot, or you can park right on PCH. Most of the year there is more parking here than at Disneyland. Summer time though, is a completely different story. Once the Valley heats up to a million degrees, everybody heads over to Zuma to cool down. So, if you’re planning on visiting Zuma during the summer, just be prepared for every vehicle registered in the greater San Fernando Valley to be parked there.

Pros: When its good, Zuma can look like a mini Pipeline. Moreover, there’s plenty of parking, and the line-ups are so spread out that you rarely ever have to share a wave.

Cons:  Well, most of the time Zuma is less-than-stellar. Any onshore wind will create close outs galore, and Zuma is totally exposed to even the slightest breeze. And did I mention that it gets absolutely insane during the summer time? On a serious note, the waves can get pretty heavy here, and people do get hurt from time to time.

Surf fact: Oh nothing really all that interesting. Well, except for the fact that the famous statue of liberty scene from the Planet of the Apes was filmed at Big Dume. Oh and thousands of other movies, TV shows and commercials have been filmed there too. All in all, nothing interesting has ever really happened there.