Kook + Jet Powered Surf Board = Bikini Atoll Take 2

Tired of paddling? Ever thought about strapping a jet engine to your surfboard? Well, you're in luck, because the "Wavejet" surfboard is coming to a surf shop near you.

Well, not quite. The boards cost around $4,500 and will only be sold at specialized dealers, but kooks everywhere will now be able to live the dream of riding a surboard without ever having to paddle. Yay!

The boards utilize a lithium-powered jet engine that functions much like the propulsion system on a PWC -- sucking up water and shooting it out in a continuously rapid motion.

The board can apparently top out at a "blistering" 12 mph.  Check out this link: Jet-Powered Surfboard

SUPS are dangerous enough, now I need to worry about a jet-powered longboard in the line-up too?

Honestly, this thing is just a pound of TNT away from being a torpedo. If you're going to buy/ride one of these things, make sure to remember to bring your skoal, cowboy hat, and goverment-issued survival kit with you, because you're basically a 21st century version of the lovable Major T.J. Kong from "Dr. Strangelove." Good luck amigo, and make sure to get those Roosskies.

Weighing in on the Malibu Controversy...

Alright, so Surfline just posted an article concerning the new dredging project that's gonna occur in June at the Malibu Lagoon. Close to 90,000 cubic-yards of mud and sand is planned to be removed (the walkway bridges and islands will also be removed in the process), in the hopes of restoring a bit more of a natural balance to the constantly stagnant (and consistently stinky) body of water.

Removing the sand will cause more water to flow through the lagoon, essentially flushing it out. This should help improve water quality both on and offshore, since the lagoon empties into the line up at Malibu Beach.

However, despite the fact that City of Malibu, the Surfrider foundation, and Heal the Bay have given their collective thumbs-up for the project (they gave the go-ahead back in November), a few local surfers and environmentalists are taking a firm stand against the clean up.

These locals (such as the great Allen Sarlo) say that the project will not only make the water quality worse, but it will also irrevocably damage the surf as well. Since the initial dredging project in '83, these same locals have often complained that Third and Second point were altered so dramatically that the surf has never been the same. A new dredging project, they say, will only make things worse.

Honestly, after reading the Surfline article, (and the Los Angeles Time piece that covered this issue in November) I'm confident that this project is the right thing to do. I trust that the Surfrider foundation and the Heal the Bay Org. would not support a project if they believed it would have negative environmental consequences. This is the right thing to do. 

The Surfer: Categorizing the Unknown

In The History of Surfing, Matt Warshaw described attempts during the 1960s at creating a census of American surfers. Rough estimates varied widely: foam-maker Gordon Clark estimated that there were around 200,000 total surfers in the country, while Newsweek generously estimated that there were close to 1,000,000 wave riders nationwide.


According to Warshaw, the reason for the varied numbers was simple: it’s difficult to define exactly what a surfer is. Is a surfer someone who owns a board? Or what about someone who only surfs during the summer? For that matter, what about a sponger or body surfer? Do they even count?

Of the many who have sought to answers these particular questions, no one has offered a more poignant conclusion than the mainstream media.


If you want to read more, follow the link below to Surfermag.com:

My article for Surfer Mag!

My interview with Scott Ditzenberger

Scott Ditzenberger is the co-director of Out Of Place, a documentary that covers surfing, surfers, and surf culture in Cleveland, Ohio. The film premiered at the New York Surf Film Festival in 2009, where it won the highly coveted viewer’s choice award. Scott is also one of the few and the brave to surf Lake Erie year round—even when there’s ice in the line up.


Read more at:
Surfinghandbook.com

Stuff Stefan Likes...

Hi everybody! Here is a article entitled "Stuff we like" from the surfinghandbook. Check it out!

Welcome to our first monthly installment of “Stuff We Like.”  Every month we are going to ask our writers, contributors, and friends what surfing related thing they have been stoked about in the past month.  It could be a piece of equipment, a book, a movie, an organization, or even just something like getting up for the dawn patrol.

Want to throw your two cents in?  Send a paragraph about something you like toadmin@surfinghandbook.com and we’ll add the best one each month from our readers.

So without further ado, here’s some stuff we like:

Stefan Slater

The History Of Surfing

For Christmas, my parents gave me The History of Surfingby Matt Warshaw. It is an incredible book, as it covers the entire history of the sport from its origins in Peru (yes, I said Peru) to the exploits of Duke Khanamoku, the first wave ridden by Greg Noll at Waimea, the birth of the shortboard, all the way up to the current events of today. Rather remarkably, Warshaw is able to condense nearly 2,000 years of history down to 500 very well written pages—which is a pretty impressive feat. As the former editor-in-chief of Surfer, he understands surf culture as a whole, so he is able to utilize the history of the sport in such a way as to allow the reader to comprehend the development of the character and demeanor of the modern surfer. Overall, the book is a wonderful read.  I just finished the section on Malibu point in the 1940’s, and I’m infatuated with the idea of paddling out at First Point on a vintage 50-pound redwood board. Not so keen on the butt-hugging trunks they wore back then though. Doesn’t leave a lot to the imagination… if you know what I mean.

Want to read what others are stoked about?
http://www.surfinghandbook.com/2011/01/stuff-we-like/

LA Surf Spot Review: Topanga Beach

The hippie sister of Malibu point, Topanga is not quite as “groovy” as her more famous sibling, but she still has her moments. Topanga is your classic point break, and when the stars (and conditions) all align perfectly, she can offer up some really fun semi-hallow rights. You just have to deal with the crowds, the pollution, the sometimes-gruff locales, and the increased chance that you might grow dreadlocks and buy a Prius.

Location: Heading south on PCH, Topanga State beach is located at the base of Topanga Canyon. The parking lot for the beach is just before Topagna Canyon Blvd, across the highway from The Reel Inn Fresh Fish restaurant.

Setup: Topanga has a sandbar/cobblestone bottom that’s fed directly by the Topanga Lagoon, and with the right swell and tide, it churns out forgiving but very workable rights. Sometimes the rights can extend pretty far. In fact, according to Surfline.com, during the big El Nino storm in 1982-83, surfer Donie Wilson rode all way from outside of Topanga to the point near The Chart House—an incredible distance of over 300 yards. Cool huh?

Swell and Tide: Just like her big sis, Topanga is all about south swells. Wests can also get in there as well, but they either have to be severely angled, or absolutely enormous. Just like most other point breaks in the area, Topanga tends to do best on a medium tide. Also, Topanga is a little more exposed to swell direction than Malibu, so she might actually break when Malibu point is a bit too sheltered from oncoming swell.

Access: Ah, well, the access situation is also similar to Malibu. Parking is easy (you can park at the lot or across the Highway); it’s finding space for you and your board out in the agua that’s tough. Topanga is the closest point break to Santa Monica and downtown L.A., so the line up is often very, very crowded.

Pros: Grumpy comments aside, Topanga can actually be a great spot. The wave is pretty fun and fairly easy, and the local crew there is quite talented. Access is a breeze, and there are plenty of nearby places to hang out and grab a bite to eat.

Cons: Heavy runoff from Topanga Canyon has been known to wash grungy hippies straight into the line up. Despite the "peace and free love" vibe though, the locals can actually be rather unforgiving of beginners and obvious newcomers. Also, the Topanga Lagoon is just as toxic as the one in Malibu, and it can sometimes empty directly into the line up. And much like the rest of the North Bay, Topanga can be rather swell challenged most of the year.

Surf fact: South of Topanga, nearby Will Roger’s State Beach, is the site of the former Port of Los Angeles. Prior to the city’s acquisition of the San Pedro Harbor (now the Port of Los Angeles), Los Angeles was badly in need of a port. So, the city actually built a wharf near Santa Monica. Let’s just say that it wasn’t very successful, thus explaining why it no longer exists.

When is it too small to paddle out?

Photo by Michelle Meiklejohn and freedigitalphotos.net

It's a personal question that every surfer must contemplate. When are the waves too small to paddle out? When are the waves so small—so absolutely meager—that paddling out is a complete waste of time?

My personal answer to the question is simple: for me, paddling out is never really a waste of time. From flat to 10 feet, getting out in the water is always fun. When I am not out in the water, I tend to miss it terribly. As soon as I get in, I feel rejuvenated, even if the waves are relatively small.

Yet, I’ve talked to a great number of other surfers who are rather dour when it comes to puny wave heights. They’ll tell me: “Oh, I won’t even paddle out if it is around knee high. Honestly, at that height, what tricks can you do? Where can you go? It is a complete waste of time!” Why, I’ve even talked to a few surfers who've told me they won’t even contemplate paddling out unless it’s definitely overhead!

Now, in their defense, most of the surfers I’m referring to were from either California or Hawaii, and the waves are rarely flat for long there. So, it is reasonable for them to miss a few sessions when the waves are small, because lucky for them, chances are the waves will be much bigger (and better) in the near future.

But how does one improve as a waterman if they’re not in the water? From my experience as a surfer, cross training activities like skateboarding or running will help with balance and fitness, but the ocean experience I glean when I surf is irreplaceable, and can’t be substituted by other land-based pursuits.

Take this for example. Recently, I was reading Surfline’s interview with John Florence. For those of you who are unaware, Florence is the youngest surfer (he is 18 years old) ever to ever compete in the Billabong Pipe Masters, which is quite incredible when you consider the conditions that he is surfing in.

Anyway, one of the questions that the interviewer asked John was whether or not he commits to surfing waves that are knee-high or less, and you know what he said? Absolutely.

For an athlete like Florence, who surfs some of the most difficult and challenging waves in the world, gaining surf experience is an absolute must. No matter what the conditions are, it is imperative for a committed surfer to get out in the water if he or she wants to advance his or her skill set. Whether it is flat or double overhead, spending time in the water will give you important ocean experience. And honestly, how could that hurt your ability to surf? So next time, if you are standing on the beach looking at tiny waves, and you are contemplating skipping your session, get out there anyway. What you gain from that time in the water could prove to be quite invaluable.