Tuesday, December 21, 2010

When is it too small to paddle out?

Photo by Michelle Meiklejohn and freedigitalphotos.net
It's a personal question that every surfer must contemplate. When are the waves too small to paddle out? When are the waves so small—so absolutely meager—that paddling out is a complete waste of time?

My personal answer to the question is simple: for me, paddling out is never really a waste of time. From flat to 10 feet, getting out in the water is always fun. When I am not out in the water, I tend to miss it terribly. As soon as I get in, I feel rejuvenated, even if the waves are relatively small.

Yet, I’ve talked to a great number of other surfers who are rather dour when it comes to puny wave heights. They’ll tell me: “Oh, I won’t even paddle out if it is around knee high. Honestly, at that height, what tricks can you do? Where can you go? It is a complete waste of time!” Why, I’ve even talked to a few surfers who've told me they won’t even contemplate paddling out unless it’s definitely overhead!

Now, in their defense, most of the surfers I’m referring to were from either California or Hawaii, and the waves are rarely flat for long there. So, it is reasonable for them to miss a few sessions when the waves are small, because lucky for them, chances are the waves will be much bigger (and better) in the near future.

But how does one improve as a waterman if they’re not in the water? From my experience as a surfer, cross training activities like skateboarding or running will help with balance and fitness, but the ocean experience I glean when I surf is irreplaceable, and can’t be substituted by other land-based pursuits.

Take this for example. Recently, I was reading Surfline’s interview with John Florence. For those of you who are unaware, Florence is the youngest surfer (he is 18 years old) ever to ever compete in the Billabong Pipe Masters, which is quite incredible when you consider the conditions that he is surfing in.

Anyway, one of the questions that the interviewer asked John was whether or not he commits to surfing waves that are knee-high or less, and you know what he said? Absolutely.

For an athlete like Florence, who surfs some of the most difficult and challenging waves in the world, gaining surf experience is an absolute must. No matter what the conditions are, it is imperative for a committed surfer to get out in the water if he or she wants to advance his or her skill set. Whether it is flat or double overhead, spending time in the water will give you important ocean experience. And honestly, how could that hurt your ability to surf? So next time, if you are standing on the beach looking at tiny waves, and you are contemplating skipping your session, get out there anyway. What you gain from that time in the water could prove to be quite invaluable.

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