One of the best features that LMU offers is that the beautiful Pacific Ocean lies only 15 minutes away. It is also key that LMU resides in the heart of the surfing world: Los Angeles. Aside from having access to substantial surf resources, surfers at LMU stand as a testament to the rich surfing history Los Angeles embodies. However, to best understand the surfing opportunities available at LMU, you have to start at the beginning, before the age of Bodhi and Johnny Utah, with a man named George Freeth.
Back in 1907, Los Angeles was having a bit of trouble. While the city was growing, public transportation couldn’t keep up. However, the railroad tycoon Henry Huntington came up with a way to boost ticket sales for his rail lines. After reading accounts by Jack London regarding the surfing exploits of Freeth and his buddies at Waikiki, he decided to invite the surfing legend to Los Angeles to put on a demonstration. Hundreds of people crowded the beach at Venice to watch Freeth ride waves, thus making him the first man to ever surf in L.A.
Following Freeth’s show, surfing started to grow in popularity in L.A., and the first surfing competition was held at Malibu beach in 1928. The first surfing club, the Palos Verdes Surf Club, was started in 1935. However, surfing didn’t really take hold in Los Angeles, or anywhere else for that matter, until after World War II. New materials such as fiberglass and polyurethane transformed the clumsy and heavy wooden surfboards of Freeth’s day into the longboards we see today. L.A. locals such as Bob Simmons and Matt Kivlin were some of the first to produce these boards. Later on, Dale Velzy is credited with opening the supposed first surf shop in Manhattan Beach in 1949.
Popular surf culture also got some help from Hollywood, as countless surf movies (such as Gidget) spread the concept of surfing as a lifestyle throughout the world.
Moving on from the history lesson, it should by now be pretty obvious that LMU has access to some decent surf. While there are plenty of spots to choose from, the ones I will list are all within a short drive of LMU, the closest one being El Porto.
Located at the beginning of El Segundo (right at 45th street), El Porto is a bit of a wave magnet. A deep undersea trench lying just off shore acts as a funnel for any swell pointing in the general direction of Southern California. While this place is small, the waves are generally smaller and mushy, and it serves as a great place for beginners to learn how to surf. However, with the right north swell, this spot can offer up some mean barrels and harsh closeouts. So, if you’re just learning, make sure to avoid the days when the waves look like they could sink an oil tanker. There is also a lot of parking available, and while crowds can be a negative factor, this break is one of the more consistent spots near LMU.
North of the 105 are a number of decent spots mostly similar to El Porto, such as Venice and Santa Monica, and it should be noted that the beach by the Santa Monica Pier does offer lessons for beginners. These spots are generally all beach breaks, so in order for them to be good, the swell must be a bit on the smaller side and crossed up, and the wind factor is only good when it is offshore.
Further north are the famous Malibu and Topanga beaches, and though they are often crowded, they offer world-class rights with a decent summer south swell (or occasional west or northwest swell). South of El Porto are mostly similar beach breaks, such as Manhattan and Redondo, and while they can be good, once they break over six feet they tend to close out.However, Manhattan is home to many surf contests and a surfing museum, so while the waves may not appear all that good, they can, in fact, break pretty nicely with the right swell (west, south or northwest). Los Angeles has a long history with the sport of surfing, and LMU is lucky to have access to a substantial amount of surf resources. So get out there and enjoy the water!
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