If you’ve ever seen the movie Gidget, this is the beach where Moondoggie, Kahuna, and their posse of fellow surf bums debunked the man by riding waves all day. And they had the right idea, because once you see Leo Carrillo (a.k.a Secos, or Arroyo Sequit Point, or Cobra Kai dojo hang out) pumping, you’ll also feel the urge to grab your single fin log, quit your day job, and play a ukulele all day long like a typical cliché Hollywood surfer.
Location: Driving north from Malibu on PCH, about a mile before the county line between L.A. and Ventura. Just across the highway from the entrance to Leo Carrillo State Park.
Setup: Leo is your classic right point that begins around a large group of rocks. There is a small creek which empties between those rocks and the main point, and it brings with it a healthy assortment of sand and cobblestone, which is then deposited along the ocean bottom to create an ideal point break (once the swell is present mind you). However, unlike its supermodel cousin Malibu point, girl next door Leo’s usually not that great, as it needs a good bit of energy to get it working.
Swell and tide: If the swell is from the south or south west, Secos will turn its raw energy into a work of art, like a sculptor creating a statue from stone. On a summertime swell, the sets at Leo can be ridiculously perfect (watch some of the surf scenes in Gidget to see what I am aiming at). Large wests or northwests can also do their magic here too. Once the swell hits overhead, the initial take off zone by the rocks moves outside, to a spot known as Primos. Incoming tides and offshore wind will only further improve wave quality.
Access: You can park along PCH, or you can park at the Leo Carrillo State Park for genuine American greenbacks.
Pros: With the right south swell and offshore breeze, surfing at Leo is like traveling back in time to 1959 and stepping into the shoes of the great Miki Dora. Also, you can camp, fish, and dive there as well.
Cons: I love Secos, so it pains me to say this, but it does have its fair share of negative points. First off, it’s usually flat. And when it isn’t flat, the line up can be as tense as the O.K. Corral. Whoever sits closest to the main takeoff rock will get priority on the wave, and it is so tight, that two longboarders (or there equivalent of four shortboarders) working together can literally take over this entire spot.
Surf fact: Despite the fact that the novel took place at Malibu Beach, the movie Gidget was filmed at Secos. Miki Dora was the surfing double for James Darren’s character Moondoggie, and Mickey Munoz donned a bikini and blond wig as Sandra Dee’s character Francie Lawrence a.k.a Gidget.
I surfed Secos from 1966 through to about 1995. Pretty much when Malibu is right so is Secos. Although rarely so "right" as is Malibu, Secos can be very, very special.
ReplyDeleteThe line-up at Secos is a mere pin-drop in comparison to Surfrider's mighty 3 point sprawl, but it too can bring the best out in the form of either long or short board.
The rock is the prime take-off with it's somewhat elevator-like drop, momentary flattening, and then the slightly less than vertical line-up through the gates of short-form liquid ecstasy.
For me the point of entrance and drop-in was 25 or so yards to the staircase side of the rock (not a reference to another surfing spot, but rather reference to the stairs descending to the beach at Secos). A second peak forms pretty much directly in front of the lifeguard tower and just inside in-line with the rock. There is no elevator-like drop; however, on a good 4 foot plus day the entrance is still plenty steep, the wave is immediately bucking, and the ride is both exhilarating and wonderfully ephemeral...
My favorite times were evening glass and those mornings with a fog so heavy one couldn't see the wave until it was upon you. At 6 foot that's a real rush and you better be ready.
I remember surfing Secos, one day in the summer of '66. I was with a couple friends, and surfed a 9'2" Jacobs at that time that was almost perfectly flat, no rocker. That was good for paddling out, since I just flipped the board upside down to paddle over the rocky shallows, so that the skeg wouldn't drag.
ReplyDeleteThe waves there were deceptively powerful. I remember this one, I turned turtle to go through it, paddling out, and it lifted me threw me over the falls and onto the wave, on my belly. Then, I hit a bounce in the wave and it tossed me up onto my feet, where I found myself leaning back, just about falling off, doing this incredible cutback, which put me right in the pocket, where I just crouched as the wave peeled over my head, enclosing me it it's mysterious white noise aura.
Dude, I was, like, in a dream-state, and then, suddenly I awoke, the joint still burning in my hand.