LA Surf Spot Review: Topanga Beach

The hippie sister of Malibu point, Topanga is not quite as “groovy” as her more famous sibling, but she still has her moments. Topanga is your classic point break, and when the stars (and conditions) all align perfectly, she can offer up some really fun semi-hallow rights. You just have to deal with the crowds, the pollution, the sometimes-gruff locales, and the increased chance that you might grow dreadlocks and buy a Prius.

Location: Heading south on PCH, Topanga State beach is located at the base of Topanga Canyon. The parking lot for the beach is just before Topagna Canyon Blvd, across the highway from The Reel Inn Fresh Fish restaurant.

Setup: Topanga has a sandbar/cobblestone bottom that’s fed directly by the Topanga Lagoon, and with the right swell and tide, it churns out forgiving but very workable rights. Sometimes the rights can extend pretty far. In fact, according to Surfline.com, during the big El Nino storm in 1982-83, surfer Donie Wilson rode all way from outside of Topanga to the point near The Chart House—an incredible distance of over 300 yards. Cool huh?

Swell and Tide: Just like her big sis, Topanga is all about south swells. Wests can also get in there as well, but they either have to be severely angled, or absolutely enormous. Just like most other point breaks in the area, Topanga tends to do best on a medium tide. Also, Topanga is a little more exposed to swell direction than Malibu, so she might actually break when Malibu point is a bit too sheltered from oncoming swell.

Access: Ah, well, the access situation is also similar to Malibu. Parking is easy (you can park at the lot or across the Highway); it’s finding space for you and your board out in the agua that’s tough. Topanga is the closest point break to Santa Monica and downtown L.A., so the line up is often very, very crowded.

Pros: Grumpy comments aside, Topanga can actually be a great spot. The wave is pretty fun and fairly easy, and the local crew there is quite talented. Access is a breeze, and there are plenty of nearby places to hang out and grab a bite to eat.

Cons: Heavy runoff from Topanga Canyon has been known to wash grungy hippies straight into the line up. Despite the "peace and free love" vibe though, the locals can actually be rather unforgiving of beginners and obvious newcomers. Also, the Topanga Lagoon is just as toxic as the one in Malibu, and it can sometimes empty directly into the line up. And much like the rest of the North Bay, Topanga can be rather swell challenged most of the year.

Surf fact: South of Topanga, nearby Will Roger’s State Beach, is the site of the former Port of Los Angeles. Prior to the city’s acquisition of the San Pedro Harbor (now the Port of Los Angeles), Los Angeles was badly in need of a port. So, the city actually built a wharf near Santa Monica. Let’s just say that it wasn’t very successful, thus explaining why it no longer exists.

When is it too small to paddle out?

Photo by Michelle Meiklejohn and freedigitalphotos.net

It's a personal question that every surfer must contemplate. When are the waves too small to paddle out? When are the waves so small—so absolutely meager—that paddling out is a complete waste of time?

My personal answer to the question is simple: for me, paddling out is never really a waste of time. From flat to 10 feet, getting out in the water is always fun. When I am not out in the water, I tend to miss it terribly. As soon as I get in, I feel rejuvenated, even if the waves are relatively small.

Yet, I’ve talked to a great number of other surfers who are rather dour when it comes to puny wave heights. They’ll tell me: “Oh, I won’t even paddle out if it is around knee high. Honestly, at that height, what tricks can you do? Where can you go? It is a complete waste of time!” Why, I’ve even talked to a few surfers who've told me they won’t even contemplate paddling out unless it’s definitely overhead!

Now, in their defense, most of the surfers I’m referring to were from either California or Hawaii, and the waves are rarely flat for long there. So, it is reasonable for them to miss a few sessions when the waves are small, because lucky for them, chances are the waves will be much bigger (and better) in the near future.

But how does one improve as a waterman if they’re not in the water? From my experience as a surfer, cross training activities like skateboarding or running will help with balance and fitness, but the ocean experience I glean when I surf is irreplaceable, and can’t be substituted by other land-based pursuits.

Take this for example. Recently, I was reading Surfline’s interview with John Florence. For those of you who are unaware, Florence is the youngest surfer (he is 18 years old) ever to ever compete in the Billabong Pipe Masters, which is quite incredible when you consider the conditions that he is surfing in.

Anyway, one of the questions that the interviewer asked John was whether or not he commits to surfing waves that are knee-high or less, and you know what he said? Absolutely.

For an athlete like Florence, who surfs some of the most difficult and challenging waves in the world, gaining surf experience is an absolute must. No matter what the conditions are, it is imperative for a committed surfer to get out in the water if he or she wants to advance his or her skill set. Whether it is flat or double overhead, spending time in the water will give you important ocean experience. And honestly, how could that hurt your ability to surf? So next time, if you are standing on the beach looking at tiny waves, and you are contemplating skipping your session, get out there anyway. What you gain from that time in the water could prove to be quite invaluable.

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

The hawk flew over the hood of my car.  I slowed down a bit, and watched as it perched on a fencepost, a squirming rattlesnake in its talons.  The snake’s tail flailed around desperately—with obvious terror—as the hawk bent down, and in one swift motion tore off its head. The hawk then began to voraciously rip away chunks of flesh, as the snake’s tail continued to writhe about sporadically. It eventually stopped moving.

That was the first thing I saw when I arrived at Big Sur.

Named long ago by the insightful Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portola for its vast uncivilized expanses south of the relative security of Monterrey, el pais grande del sur (or Big Sur) stretches nearly 70 miles from San Simeon to Carmel.

Even with the introduction of paved roads in the 1920’s, and electricity in the 1950’s, Big Sur is still a wild place, complete with colossal redwoods, roving mountain lions, and daunting cliffs straight from “The Land Of The Lost.” That rugged beauty has attracted pilgrims of all kind over the years: from common tourists and naturalists, to artists like Jack Kerouac, and even movie stars like Rita Hayworth; all drawn to this shrine of unadulterated natural magnificence like moths to a flame.

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To read the rest, please click the link below!

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

LA TIMES: Chasing Waves in the Pacific

LA times is running this cool bit about chasing waves in the Pacific. There are some nice vids, diagrams on measuring waves, and some bios on famous big wave surfers. Check it out!

Chasing the swell... click here!