Time: 11:00-12:15
Location: Staircase
Water: Still really cold
Swell: Same size as yesterday, about 1-3 SSW
Board: 6.0 Thruster
Had a lot of pent up emotions from the previous day, so I made a note to try and burn it all away with a nice hard surf. Staircase was pretty small, and the four other guys that were out were not doing much at all. But I worked hard, and I have to say, all those mushy wave sessions at El Porto sure have paid off. While the other guys were only riding straight for a couple of seconds, I would take off, pump hard, and use the close outs to launch off the lip. I have to say, it felt pretty damn good to be ripping again, five weeks without any waves or skating was a quite a bit of a trial. Looking forward to heading out again and working hard on my tricks.
Friday, July 16, 2010
Surf session 008
Time: 10:30-12:00
Location: County Line
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: 1-3 feet SSW
Water: Chilly as shit
Went out for a session with Chase up at County Line. The water was bloody cold, but the waves were somewhat decent. My surf compatriot was a bit down on being out in the water, so I had to encourage him a bit. Anyway, it was nice to actually have some company for once, and he did have a few funny jokes. Like my personal favorite, "Why do strippers make so much money at Indian Casinos? Because they make it rain!" I had a pretty good laugh at that one.
Location: County Line
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: 1-3 feet SSW
Water: Chilly as shit
Went out for a session with Chase up at County Line. The water was bloody cold, but the waves were somewhat decent. My surf compatriot was a bit down on being out in the water, so I had to encourage him a bit. Anyway, it was nice to actually have some company for once, and he did have a few funny jokes. Like my personal favorite, "Why do strippers make so much money at Indian Casinos? Because they make it rain!" I had a pretty good laugh at that one.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Surf session 007
Time: 10:10-11:20
Location: Malibu Third point
Swell: 1-2 occasional 3+ SSW
Water: Fairly warm
Been pretty tired lately. Folks are out of town, and I have to walk the dogs in the morning, and they wake up really early. 6:00 isn't fun, but I am kind of getting used to it. Took my 6.0 out to third point, and I wasn't the only one on a shortboard out there. Bunch of kids were ripping pretty nicely out there, which served as a potent reminder of the excellent wave quality that Malibu embodies. Zuma is about the same size at this time, but it has been so mushy lately that it closes in three seconds flat. So, despite the shitty wave quality, Malibu was actually pretty fun and I was able to rip it up on a few really nice waves.
See you out in the water!
Location: Malibu Third point
Swell: 1-2 occasional 3+ SSW
Water: Fairly warm
Been pretty tired lately. Folks are out of town, and I have to walk the dogs in the morning, and they wake up really early. 6:00 isn't fun, but I am kind of getting used to it. Took my 6.0 out to third point, and I wasn't the only one on a shortboard out there. Bunch of kids were ripping pretty nicely out there, which served as a potent reminder of the excellent wave quality that Malibu embodies. Zuma is about the same size at this time, but it has been so mushy lately that it closes in three seconds flat. So, despite the shitty wave quality, Malibu was actually pretty fun and I was able to rip it up on a few really nice waves.
See you out in the water!
Friday, July 9, 2010
Surf session 006
Time: 9:45-11:15
Board: 9.0 Becker pintail
Swell: 1-3 SSW
Water: Not so bad, wore my 3.2 so no complaints.
Some of my friends do not surf Malibu. I, on the other hand, love the spot. Aside from the usual excellent wave quality, the place is never boring. There is just so much to entertain you at Malibu. Whether its the eccentric surfers, the exotic cars, or Malibu Carl himself, this spot has quite a bit of excitement to offer. In fact, today was one of those extra special days that reminded why I love Malibu so dearly.
I pulled into the parking lot, and unfortunately, had to use the electronic parking machine. I anticipated this, and brought the $8 for parking. I put $7 in the machine, and for some odd reason, it would not accept the last bill. Just as I was starting to check my pockets for change, the machine notified me it was printing a ticket.
The ticket ended up being a notification that I had insufficient funds. To top it of, the machine also took my $7.
When I paddled out into the water, the swell was decent. It was on the small side, but as always the shape was alright. By the end of my session the waves had started to close out, but otherwise the session surf wise went very well.
However, as I was in the water I bumped into a friend of mine that I had not seen since the 6th grade. I had no idea where he went to school, where he lived, or even that he surfed. His face had changed a bit, as had his voice (obviously), but once Alex Popper said his name, I recognized him instantly.
We talked for a good hour or so, caught a few waves, and then told one another that we would meet up sometime next week to surf. I walked back to my car around 11:00 or so, and feeling rather content with myself, I packed my gear and hopped into my car.
Unfortunately, that feeling of content went away pretty quickly.
I pulled up to the light by the Malibu Inn to make a U-turn, when all of a sudden I heard sirens. A large semi coming the opposite way pulled over in front of Jack-in-the-Box, and it was quickly followed by a number of police cars. The policia jumped out of their cars, Beretta's and shotguns at the ready. "Driver show me your hands!" they kept saying over and over again, as they slowly started to surround the car. All of this happened 15 yards away from me, and all I kept thinking was: "please, if there is a shoot out, God don't let me die in front of Jack in the Box."
I made it down to Topanga canyon, and was able to get home, though the drive was an hour longer then I had originally anticipated. But anyway, once again Malibu reminded me that much like the beautiful city of angels, surfing here can be very entertaining.
Board: 9.0 Becker pintail
Swell: 1-3 SSW
Water: Not so bad, wore my 3.2 so no complaints.
Some of my friends do not surf Malibu. I, on the other hand, love the spot. Aside from the usual excellent wave quality, the place is never boring. There is just so much to entertain you at Malibu. Whether its the eccentric surfers, the exotic cars, or Malibu Carl himself, this spot has quite a bit of excitement to offer. In fact, today was one of those extra special days that reminded why I love Malibu so dearly.
I pulled into the parking lot, and unfortunately, had to use the electronic parking machine. I anticipated this, and brought the $8 for parking. I put $7 in the machine, and for some odd reason, it would not accept the last bill. Just as I was starting to check my pockets for change, the machine notified me it was printing a ticket.
The ticket ended up being a notification that I had insufficient funds. To top it of, the machine also took my $7.
When I paddled out into the water, the swell was decent. It was on the small side, but as always the shape was alright. By the end of my session the waves had started to close out, but otherwise the session surf wise went very well.
However, as I was in the water I bumped into a friend of mine that I had not seen since the 6th grade. I had no idea where he went to school, where he lived, or even that he surfed. His face had changed a bit, as had his voice (obviously), but once Alex Popper said his name, I recognized him instantly.
We talked for a good hour or so, caught a few waves, and then told one another that we would meet up sometime next week to surf. I walked back to my car around 11:00 or so, and feeling rather content with myself, I packed my gear and hopped into my car.
Unfortunately, that feeling of content went away pretty quickly.
I pulled up to the light by the Malibu Inn to make a U-turn, when all of a sudden I heard sirens. A large semi coming the opposite way pulled over in front of Jack-in-the-Box, and it was quickly followed by a number of police cars. The policia jumped out of their cars, Beretta's and shotguns at the ready. "Driver show me your hands!" they kept saying over and over again, as they slowly started to surround the car. All of this happened 15 yards away from me, and all I kept thinking was: "please, if there is a shoot out, God don't let me die in front of Jack in the Box."
I made it down to Topanga canyon, and was able to get home, though the drive was an hour longer then I had originally anticipated. But anyway, once again Malibu reminded me that much like the beautiful city of angels, surfing here can be very entertaining.
Wednesday, July 7, 2010
Surf session 005
Time: 11:10-12:15
Location: Staircase
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: SSW/wind swell approx. 3-4 occasional shoulder high set.
Water: Air temp 62, so the water was very chilly!
With work and my ear issue, I wasn't able to catch the big July 4th swell at its peak (approx. overhead). However, I lucked out and managed to paddle out today, and fortunately was able to catch the tail end of the so called "epic" swell. Staircase was relatively empty, and when I pulled up there were only four guys in the line up. The lulls in between the sets were pretty long, but when they did arrive, there were some pretty fun shoulder high waves. Haven't rode my 6.0 since before my Europe trip, but I got back into the swing of things pretty quickly out there. Pulled a nice cutback and a few off the lips. Sure felt good to be ripping again.
Wore my earplugs today, and I think they worked pretty well. I am still getting used to them, but I know that for the long run they can only help. I will say though, that with everything being so quiet, I was able to concentrate a bit more on my surfing. I couldn't hear any one talking, and the sounds of the waves were muffled. The only noise I could really hear was the sound of the water lapping up against my board. It was very serene to say the least.
On a bad note, the cost to park in the parking lot has gone up to $8. In addition to that, they got rid of the old ghetto deposit box, and replaced it with a brand new electronic ticket dispenser (which conveniently does not give any change back). Because of the no change deal, and the fact that costs $8, I will be parking my car on the side of the road. I hate to say it though, most folks will follow my lead (if they already haven't been doing that), thus potentially causing some future parking or police issues. The cops on PCH are already touchy as it is, so this parking situation probably will not help.
Location: Staircase
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: SSW/wind swell approx. 3-4 occasional shoulder high set.
Water: Air temp 62, so the water was very chilly!
With work and my ear issue, I wasn't able to catch the big July 4th swell at its peak (approx. overhead). However, I lucked out and managed to paddle out today, and fortunately was able to catch the tail end of the so called "epic" swell. Staircase was relatively empty, and when I pulled up there were only four guys in the line up. The lulls in between the sets were pretty long, but when they did arrive, there were some pretty fun shoulder high waves. Haven't rode my 6.0 since before my Europe trip, but I got back into the swing of things pretty quickly out there. Pulled a nice cutback and a few off the lips. Sure felt good to be ripping again.
Wore my earplugs today, and I think they worked pretty well. I am still getting used to them, but I know that for the long run they can only help. I will say though, that with everything being so quiet, I was able to concentrate a bit more on my surfing. I couldn't hear any one talking, and the sounds of the waves were muffled. The only noise I could really hear was the sound of the water lapping up against my board. It was very serene to say the least.
On a bad note, the cost to park in the parking lot has gone up to $8. In addition to that, they got rid of the old ghetto deposit box, and replaced it with a brand new electronic ticket dispenser (which conveniently does not give any change back). Because of the no change deal, and the fact that costs $8, I will be parking my car on the side of the road. I hate to say it though, most folks will follow my lead (if they already haven't been doing that), thus potentially causing some future parking or police issues. The cops on PCH are already touchy as it is, so this parking situation probably will not help.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Surf session 004
I'll be honest, I have been little bad, as I have not recorded several of my surf sessions. However, I have a little fresh start since I have been gone for 5 weeks on the other side of the pond, so I will start with my most recent surf session.
Malibu Second/Third point
10:15-11:35
Kennedy 8.0 Pintail
Getting over my ear problem, so since the doc told me to wear ear plugs, I decided that the best way for me to get wet while keeping my ears dry was to head down to Malibu and ride my 8.0 named "Paulina." That board absolutely shines whenever I ride her at Malibu, (her thick rails and glassed in sidebitters were shaped in mind for those long, gently peeling walls) and it feels like I have been transported back in time to the 70's or an earlier time before the squashtail surfboard. Unlike my Becker, she doesn't ride like a log, even though she looks like one. That board is definitely something special. Anyway, surf was about 1-3 and somewhat crowded, but it was still fun, and it brought back a lot of good memories.
Malibu Second/Third point
10:15-11:35
Kennedy 8.0 Pintail
Getting over my ear problem, so since the doc told me to wear ear plugs, I decided that the best way for me to get wet while keeping my ears dry was to head down to Malibu and ride my 8.0 named "Paulina." That board absolutely shines whenever I ride her at Malibu, (her thick rails and glassed in sidebitters were shaped in mind for those long, gently peeling walls) and it feels like I have been transported back in time to the 70's or an earlier time before the squashtail surfboard. Unlike my Becker, she doesn't ride like a log, even though she looks like one. That board is definitely something special. Anyway, surf was about 1-3 and somewhat crowded, but it was still fun, and it brought back a lot of good memories.
Finding surf in Sicily
Finding surf in Sicily is not easy. Being that it is an island in the middle of the Mediterranean, I had this preconception that as soon as our train hit the coast I would be seeing some evidence of surf. Alas, there was nothing. Much like the rest of Italy (I traveled from the coast of Tuscany, south to the Amalfi region, and now into Sicily), the region is unpredictable surf wise. I was told Levanto had surf 140 days of the year, and Palermo (capital of Sicily) had surf some 200 days of the year. However, unlike here in Los Angeles, one can't just roll up to a local spot and expect their to be waves, because it actually requires a bit of hunting. Storm patterns are random and short lived, giving only a small window for potentially surf-able waves. In other words, if you are like myself, and have little knowledge of the local beaches, weather patterns, and above all the language, finding any rideable waves within Italy or Sicily is no walk in the park.
However, it was an interesting experience wave hunting in Sicily, mainly because telling people I was "surfer" and not a "windsurfer" caused quite a bit of confusion. For you see, Palermo and the majority of Sicily is well known as a prime spot for windsurfing. Strong onshore/offshore winds are a relative constant factor, and because of that, the sport of windsurfing is immensely popular.
Yet, aside from a couple of locals wearing "Bear" surf shirts and Quiksilver boardshorts (thank god Quiksilver does not make speedos), surf culture in northern Sicily is not as strong as it was in beautiful Levanto.
Hopefully, when I return to Italy in the future, I will be able to score a few waves. For now though, I will have to make do with my waveless memories of delicious spaghetti with tuna eggs , topless beaches (no joke!), and the bluest ocean water I have ever seen.
However, it was an interesting experience wave hunting in Sicily, mainly because telling people I was "surfer" and not a "windsurfer" caused quite a bit of confusion. For you see, Palermo and the majority of Sicily is well known as a prime spot for windsurfing. Strong onshore/offshore winds are a relative constant factor, and because of that, the sport of windsurfing is immensely popular.
Yet, aside from a couple of locals wearing "Bear" surf shirts and Quiksilver boardshorts (thank god Quiksilver does not make speedos), surf culture in northern Sicily is not as strong as it was in beautiful Levanto.
Hopefully, when I return to Italy in the future, I will be able to score a few waves. For now though, I will have to make do with my waveless memories of delicious spaghetti with tuna eggs , topless beaches (no joke!), and the bluest ocean water I have ever seen.
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