Time: 11:00-12:15
Location: Staircase
Water: Still really cold
Swell: Same size as yesterday, about 1-3 SSW
Board: 6.0 Thruster
Had a lot of pent up emotions from the previous day, so I made a note to try and burn it all away with a nice hard surf. Staircase was pretty small, and the four other guys that were out were not doing much at all. But I worked hard, and I have to say, all those mushy wave sessions at El Porto sure have paid off. While the other guys were only riding straight for a couple of seconds, I would take off, pump hard, and use the close outs to launch off the lip. I have to say, it felt pretty damn good to be ripping again, five weeks without any waves or skating was a quite a bit of a trial. Looking forward to heading out again and working hard on my tricks.
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