I'll be honest, I have been little bad, as I have not recorded several of my surf sessions. However, I have a little fresh start since I have been gone for 5 weeks on the other side of the pond, so I will start with my most recent surf session.
Malibu Second/Third point
10:15-11:35
Kennedy 8.0 Pintail
Getting over my ear problem, so since the doc told me to wear ear plugs, I decided that the best way for me to get wet while keeping my ears dry was to head down to Malibu and ride my 8.0 named "Paulina." That board absolutely shines whenever I ride her at Malibu, (her thick rails and glassed in sidebitters were shaped in mind for those long, gently peeling walls) and it feels like I have been transported back in time to the 70's or an earlier time before the squashtail surfboard. Unlike my Becker, she doesn't ride like a log, even though she looks like one. That board is definitely something special. Anyway, surf was about 1-3 and somewhat crowded, but it was still fun, and it brought back a lot of good memories.
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