Here's to you Ahab... and Guinness

Well, Hollywood may not get surfers, but the limey film industry sure does. Thankfully, nobody was eaten by a white whale during the filming of this commercial. Click the link to watch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3JEORDUEqc

Da Cat got your tongue?

Some have labeled him as an icon of the rebellious attitude of the 1960's, while others just think he was an selfish asshole.
Mickey "Da Cat" Dora was an eccentric man to say the least. While he contributed a great deal towards the progression of the sport of surfing (such as being one of the first surfers to use a pintail board), Da Cat is much better known for his outlandish behavior. For instance, Mickey had a knack for stealing anything that wasn't bolted to the ground. He also spent a good eal of time in prison for a large scale credit card scam. His actions in the water though, were what made him famous. Like a pit-helmeted explorer picking off leeches from his own ass, Mickey relished in relieving Surfrider's lineup from bothersome kooks.

His coup de grace of course though was his famous "exposure" during a Malibu surf contest. During the 1967 Malibu Invitational Surf Classic, Mickey took off on a wave, slid beautifully down the line, and when he passed the tower where the judges were residing, he dropped his shorts and mooned the crowed. That was the last time Da Cat would ever participate in a contest.

However, his whole attitude of burning kooks like a kid shooting cans with a b.b. gun has somehow integrated itself into the attitude of Malibu point. Burn somebody in the line up, and there's a good chance you will not be making the next wave. I experienced that once myself, as one pendejo literally shoved me off a wave (though it retrospect he did have the right away). Malibu is an amazing wave that has the unfortunate luck of being located next to a urban sprawl of several million people. Da Cat said that he punished kooks because he had a right, and after spending a good deal of time in the water myself, I can understand what he meant. I too have felt that urge to smack some kook as he completely burned me on his brand new SUP in total and blissful ignorance.

However, that sort of aggression goes completely against the idea of surfing. Surfing is an artistic escape. Why should anything that positive be tainted by anger? Yes, it can be frustrating in a line up full of folks unaware of the code, but angry reprisals are disrespectful to not only the surfing community, but to the ocean as well.

Though Dora will live on at Malibu as long as there are both waves and people, do try and have compassion for that poor Val or kook when your surfing First Point. Who knows? Maybe whitey will witness your selfless act and decide to eat a surf Nazi instead of you.

Leo Carrillo Surf Spot Review

If you’ve ever seen the movie Gidget, this is the beach where Moondoggie, Kahuna, and their posse of fellow surf bums debunked the man by riding waves all day. And they had the right idea, because once you see Leo Carrillo (a.k.a Secos, or Arroyo Sequit Point, or Cobra Kai dojo hang out) pumping, you’ll also feel the urge to grab your single fin log, quit your day job, and play a ukulele all day long like a typical cliché Hollywood surfer.

Location: Driving north from Malibu on PCH, about a mile before the county line between L.A. and Ventura. Just across the highway from the entrance to Leo Carrillo State Park.

Setup: Leo is your classic right point that begins around a large group of rocks. There is a small creek which empties between those rocks and the main point, and it brings with it a healthy assortment of sand and cobblestone, which is then deposited along the ocean bottom to create an ideal point break (once the swell is present mind you). However, unlike its supermodel cousin Malibu point, girl next door Leo’s usually not that great, as it needs a good bit of energy to get it working.

Swell and tide: If the swell is from the south or south west, Secos will turn its raw energy into a work of art, like a sculptor creating a statue from stone. On a summertime swell, the sets at Leo can be ridiculously perfect (watch some of the surf scenes in Gidget to see what I am aiming at). Large wests or northwests can also do their magic here too. Once the swell hits overhead, the initial take off zone by the rocks moves outside, to a spot known as Primos. Incoming tides and offshore wind will only further improve wave quality.

Access: You can park along PCH, or you can park at the Leo Carrillo State Park for genuine American greenbacks.

Pros: With the right south swell and offshore breeze, surfing at Leo is like traveling back in time to 1959 and stepping into the shoes of the great Miki Dora. Also, you can camp, fish, and dive there as well.

Cons: I love Secos, so it pains me to say this, but it does have its fair share of negative points. First off, it’s usually flat. And when it isn’t flat, the line up can be as tense as the O.K. Corral. Whoever sits closest to the main takeoff rock will get priority on the wave, and it is so tight, that two longboarders (or there equivalent of four shortboarders) working together can literally take over this entire spot.

Surf fact: Despite the fact that the novel took place at Malibu Beach, the movie Gidget was filmed at Secos. Miki Dora was the surfing double for James Darren’s character Moondoggie, and Mickey Munoz donned a bikini and blond wig as Sandra Dee’s character Francie Lawrence a.k.a Gidget.

Staircase/Heavens Surf spot review

With such descriptive names, one would think Heavens was an idyllic surfer’s paradise (complete with 12 foot barrels and sunbathing Victoria Secret models), and that Staircase actually had a staircase, but alas, the names are kind of misleading. Heavens is unfortunately supermodel free, and there are no stairs at Staircase. To top it off, these spots are mostly flat during the year. However, when the North Bay is hit by a large SW or NW swell, and every single spot between County Line and Malibu point is literally chock-full of neoprene and fiberglass, these two breaks will act as a sort of safe haven for crowd weary locals looking to score a few waves.

Location: If you are driving north from Malibu on PCH, Heavens will be just after Secos, and Staircase will be just before County Line. Heavens is actually easy to miss, as it is part of the Leo Carrillo State Park, and does not have any “direct” access from PCH. Staircase is less than a ¼ mile before County Line, and it has a dirt parking lot with a trail that leads down from the highway to the water.

Setup: Both breaks are point/beach breaks. Staircase offers mostly rights with the occasional (but very short) left. Be prepared to take off late, as the waves often lack power. Heavens is a much faster wave that can offer a rather steep take off. Both rights and lefts can be found on the menu, and the occasional barrel is not unheard of.

Swell and tide: SW or NW. Most of these times these breaks are flat, with Secos and County offering much better waves. However when swell is somewhere between waist high to double overhead, these spots will begin to break. On a medium tide, with a decent sized swell, one can score relatively empty waves even when other breaks are crowded.

Access: Staircase has a parking lot, which requires dinero. You can park at Leo Carrillo and walk over to Heavens, or you can park on PCH, and use one of the trails to climb down to the water.

Pros: When the swell and tide are spot on, you can catch some nicely shaped waves with relatively few people in the water. Great spot for beginners as well.

Cons: Though the waves can be good, usually there’s nothing.

Surf fact: Heavens is part of Leo Carrillo State Beach, which was named after the famous actor Leopoldo Antonio Carrillo. Also, the beach is used for a lot of movies, like “The Karate Kid,” “Point Break,” and “The Usual Suspects.”

County Line Surf Spot Review

While not actually on the county line between Ventura and LA, this spot acts like the DMZ (minus the landmines), officially demarcating surfwise where the land of sun and botox ends, and the realm of oil derricks and strawberries begins. That point aside, no matter what the conditions are, you will always find someone surfing County Line. That’s because there is almost always something surfable there, even when it’s no bigger than an ankle slapper.

Location: Coming north from Malibu on PCH, you can’t miss it. It is right along the highway near the Ventura/LA county line. If you do miss it, you’re probably as blind as Mr. Magoo and shouldn’t be driving.

Setup: At the north end of the beach is point/reef break that offers up a fast peaky right. There is also a short left, but be prepared to share your wave (and board) with the local rocks. At the south end of the beach is mysto-spot 600 yards from shore known as “County Line Bambora,” and it only breaks when the swell is f-ing large. In between the two spots is a collection of constantly shifting but very fun beachbreaks.

Swell and tide: Whether it is south, northwest, or anything in between, any swell from the great Pacific will break here. Often times, County will be bigger than most spots to the south when the waves are fickle. The beachbreaks are better on a high tide, while the reef/point at the north end is better on a low tide.

Access: Park on PCH, or in the dirt lot at the north end of the beach.

Pros: Consistent, reliable, and often times pretty fun. The shifting beachbreaks tends to keep the line up spread out.

Cons: Due to its location, Vals and Thousand Dokies tend to flock here, so it is usually crowded with a rather diverse skill level of surfers. It also can blow out rather easily, and has a tendency to look bigger than it actually is.

Surf fact: Neptune’s Net is right across from County Line and has some great seafood. It is also used in a lot of movies; so don’t be surprised if you see Johnny Utah or the Big Wednesday crew munching on some crab legs.

Surf session 009

Time: 11:00-12:15
Location: Staircase
Water: Still really cold
Swell: Same size as yesterday, about 1-3 SSW
Board: 6.0 Thruster

Had a lot of pent up emotions from the previous day, so I made a note to try and burn it all away with a nice hard surf. Staircase was pretty small, and the four other guys that were out were not doing much at all. But I worked hard, and I have to say, all those mushy wave sessions at El Porto sure have paid off. While the other guys were only riding straight for a couple of seconds, I would take off, pump hard, and use the close outs to launch off the lip. I have to say, it felt pretty damn good to be ripping again, five weeks without any waves or skating was a quite a bit of a trial. Looking forward to heading out again and working hard on my tricks.

Surf session 008

Time: 10:30-12:00
Location: County Line
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: 1-3 feet SSW
Water: Chilly as shit

Went out for a session with Chase up at County Line. The water was bloody cold, but the waves were somewhat decent. My surf compatriot was a bit down on being out in the water, so I had to encourage him a bit. Anyway, it was nice to actually have some company for once, and he did have a few funny jokes. Like my personal favorite, "Why do strippers make so much money at Indian Casinos? Because they make it rain!" I had a pretty good laugh at that one.