LA Surf Spot Review: Topanga Beach

The hippie sister of Malibu point, Topanga is not quite as “groovy” as her more famous sibling, but she still has her moments. Topanga is your classic point break, and when the stars (and conditions) all align perfectly, she can offer up some really fun semi-hallow rights. You just have to deal with the crowds, the pollution, the sometimes-gruff locales, and the increased chance that you might grow dreadlocks and buy a Prius.

Location: Heading south on PCH, Topanga State beach is located at the base of Topanga Canyon. The parking lot for the beach is just before Topagna Canyon Blvd, across the highway from The Reel Inn Fresh Fish restaurant.

Setup: Topanga has a sandbar/cobblestone bottom that’s fed directly by the Topanga Lagoon, and with the right swell and tide, it churns out forgiving but very workable rights. Sometimes the rights can extend pretty far. In fact, according to Surfline.com, during the big El Nino storm in 1982-83, surfer Donie Wilson rode all way from outside of Topanga to the point near The Chart House—an incredible distance of over 300 yards. Cool huh?

Swell and Tide: Just like her big sis, Topanga is all about south swells. Wests can also get in there as well, but they either have to be severely angled, or absolutely enormous. Just like most other point breaks in the area, Topanga tends to do best on a medium tide. Also, Topanga is a little more exposed to swell direction than Malibu, so she might actually break when Malibu point is a bit too sheltered from oncoming swell.

Access: Ah, well, the access situation is also similar to Malibu. Parking is easy (you can park at the lot or across the Highway); it’s finding space for you and your board out in the agua that’s tough. Topanga is the closest point break to Santa Monica and downtown L.A., so the line up is often very, very crowded.

Pros: Grumpy comments aside, Topanga can actually be a great spot. The wave is pretty fun and fairly easy, and the local crew there is quite talented. Access is a breeze, and there are plenty of nearby places to hang out and grab a bite to eat.

Cons: Heavy runoff from Topanga Canyon has been known to wash grungy hippies straight into the line up. Despite the "peace and free love" vibe though, the locals can actually be rather unforgiving of beginners and obvious newcomers. Also, the Topanga Lagoon is just as toxic as the one in Malibu, and it can sometimes empty directly into the line up. And much like the rest of the North Bay, Topanga can be rather swell challenged most of the year.

Surf fact: South of Topanga, nearby Will Roger’s State Beach, is the site of the former Port of Los Angeles. Prior to the city’s acquisition of the San Pedro Harbor (now the Port of Los Angeles), Los Angeles was badly in need of a port. So, the city actually built a wharf near Santa Monica. Let’s just say that it wasn’t very successful, thus explaining why it no longer exists.

When is it too small to paddle out?

Photo by Michelle Meiklejohn and freedigitalphotos.net

It's a personal question that every surfer must contemplate. When are the waves too small to paddle out? When are the waves so small—so absolutely meager—that paddling out is a complete waste of time?

My personal answer to the question is simple: for me, paddling out is never really a waste of time. From flat to 10 feet, getting out in the water is always fun. When I am not out in the water, I tend to miss it terribly. As soon as I get in, I feel rejuvenated, even if the waves are relatively small.

Yet, I’ve talked to a great number of other surfers who are rather dour when it comes to puny wave heights. They’ll tell me: “Oh, I won’t even paddle out if it is around knee high. Honestly, at that height, what tricks can you do? Where can you go? It is a complete waste of time!” Why, I’ve even talked to a few surfers who've told me they won’t even contemplate paddling out unless it’s definitely overhead!

Now, in their defense, most of the surfers I’m referring to were from either California or Hawaii, and the waves are rarely flat for long there. So, it is reasonable for them to miss a few sessions when the waves are small, because lucky for them, chances are the waves will be much bigger (and better) in the near future.

But how does one improve as a waterman if they’re not in the water? From my experience as a surfer, cross training activities like skateboarding or running will help with balance and fitness, but the ocean experience I glean when I surf is irreplaceable, and can’t be substituted by other land-based pursuits.

Take this for example. Recently, I was reading Surfline’s interview with John Florence. For those of you who are unaware, Florence is the youngest surfer (he is 18 years old) ever to ever compete in the Billabong Pipe Masters, which is quite incredible when you consider the conditions that he is surfing in.

Anyway, one of the questions that the interviewer asked John was whether or not he commits to surfing waves that are knee-high or less, and you know what he said? Absolutely.

For an athlete like Florence, who surfs some of the most difficult and challenging waves in the world, gaining surf experience is an absolute must. No matter what the conditions are, it is imperative for a committed surfer to get out in the water if he or she wants to advance his or her skill set. Whether it is flat or double overhead, spending time in the water will give you important ocean experience. And honestly, how could that hurt your ability to surf? So next time, if you are standing on the beach looking at tiny waves, and you are contemplating skipping your session, get out there anyway. What you gain from that time in the water could prove to be quite invaluable.

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

The hawk flew over the hood of my car.  I slowed down a bit, and watched as it perched on a fencepost, a squirming rattlesnake in its talons.  The snake’s tail flailed around desperately—with obvious terror—as the hawk bent down, and in one swift motion tore off its head. The hawk then began to voraciously rip away chunks of flesh, as the snake’s tail continued to writhe about sporadically. It eventually stopped moving.

That was the first thing I saw when I arrived at Big Sur.

Named long ago by the insightful Spanish explorer Gaspar de Portola for its vast uncivilized expanses south of the relative security of Monterrey, el pais grande del sur (or Big Sur) stretches nearly 70 miles from San Simeon to Carmel.

Even with the introduction of paved roads in the 1920’s, and electricity in the 1950’s, Big Sur is still a wild place, complete with colossal redwoods, roving mountain lions, and daunting cliffs straight from “The Land Of The Lost.” That rugged beauty has attracted pilgrims of all kind over the years: from common tourists and naturalists, to artists like Jack Kerouac, and even movie stars like Rita Hayworth; all drawn to this shrine of unadulterated natural magnificence like moths to a flame.

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To read the rest, please click the link below!

Wave Hunting in Big Sur

LA TIMES: Chasing Waves in the Pacific

LA times is running this cool bit about chasing waves in the Pacific. There are some nice vids, diagrams on measuring waves, and some bios on famous big wave surfers. Check it out!

Chasing the swell... click here!

The SUP Invasion

Recently, after a prolonged tour of use and abuse, I was forced to take my two trusty shortboards into my local shop for some ding repair. After learning that the slightly horrific repairs would take up to two weeks, I was somewhat dismayed, since they’re the boards I tend to ride the most. However, I decided to take advantage of the situation by dusting off my old Malibu 9.0 log and getting in a bit of much needed longboard practice.

Read on at OFF THE LIP.

Click me: The SUP Invasion

Patch em up: Wetsuit Repair Part Deux

All right so, I finally got the neoprene cement in the mail, and now I can finally finish my patch up project.

The cement (pictured left) is rather strong stuff (and just so you know, extremely flammable). If you ever need to make a home made bomb--to fight zombies and the like of course--you could transform this gunk into a potent demolition tool faster than you can say "pipe bomb."

Anyway, a little off tangent, I apologize. Once you have your cement, go ahead and take your wetsuit to a nice, ventilated area. Unless you want to be higher than Jimmy when he lit his guitar on fire, so in that case, knock your self out (no pun intended). Make sure you are wearing something to protect yourself from the fumes, and gloves to protect your hands. Coat the areas that you sewed together once. Wait 5-10 minutes until it dries, and then coat again. You should be pretty much set!

On a side not, as I unfortunately found out, a little cement goes a long way. I figured that the more cement I slapped on my suit, the more watertight it would be. And well even though that might have been the case, the seams now have large clumps of cement that are quite irritating to the touch. So please, if you are going to do this yourself, use the cement sparingly.

Surf Traffic

The pages of Surfer often keep us surfers sane when, for one reason or another, we become landlocked and are unable surf.  Those ocean-less days can be painful, and Surfer has rescued me on more than one occasion from filling my bathtub with saltwater, donning a wetsuit, and making my own waves.

During one of the many recent rainstorms we had here in Los Angeles—when the waters offshore have the consistency and smell of fresh toxic sludge—I found myself quenching my thirst for waves by flipping through this month’s issue of Surfer. There was an interesting article about the most crowded surf spots in the world, and lo and behold, my personal favorite surf spot (First Point) was listed as number two.

I felt a little pang of remorse as I read the article (since I have so many positive memories of surfing there) but unfortunately, Surfer was spot on. Despite its wonderful waves and historical significance to the surfing community, Malibu is extremely crowded. Often times, when the waves are pumping, Malibu mimics the DMV—long lines, bad attitudes, and of course, no matter how early you get up, you’re never the first one there.

To make matters worse, Zuma Jay is supposedly contemplating opening a shop at the Malibu Pier, so those flocks of tourist/kooks that visit Malibu beach every year have easier access to renting boards and gear. Absolutely no unintended consequences, right? Of course not! Well, other than the possible increase in the number of beheadings due to loose nine-foot logs, but that’s not a big deal at all. Putting a surf shop at the Malibu Pier is like opening a school crosswalk on a NASCAR Speedway—it will only create more speed bumps for apathetic locals that really don't have time to stop.

While it may be to late to save Malibu from being one of the most crowded surf spots in the world, it is important that the local surfing community properly educated beginners on surf etiquette, in order to save my beloved beach from becoming a literal death trap. I hope for a day when I can go to Malibu Beach, and not fear being knocked unconscious by a run away board. Will that happen? Maybe not in my lifetime.

But a man can dream.

Patch 'em up: Wetsuit repair part 1

Okay, so its winter time here LA, and that means 4/3's from now on. Unfortunately, because of the unseasonably cold water we've been having lately, I have been wearing my 4/3 quite a bit. So much so in fact, that I have torn two of the neck portions of my suit. With my Big Sur trip coming up ( and all that cold Central California water) I figured I needed to patch up my suit in order to keep from getting hypothermia.

After doing some research, I found that I could use one of two methods to patch up my suit. The first one involved using a urethane sealer or neoprene cement to seal the hole. The other method involved sewing up the tear first, and then patching it over with a sealer or cement. The former option could only be used for a gap that was approx the size of a person's fingernail, so anything bigger (like the two gnarly tears in my suit), would have to utilize the latter technique, and thus be sewn up first and then patched over with a sealer.

I started off by going to Jo-Ann fabric store for a needle and thread. I bought the thickest thread they had (meant for sewing leather jackets or heavy carpets). I was told I could also use fishing line or dental floss to sew up the tears, because they are more water resistant than thread, but I figured that the thread would be easier on the fabric and a little more forgiving during the actual sewing process.  I also went online and bought Neoprene cement, as opposed to the urethane sealer. The sealer dries quicker, but the cement is much more permanent, so I figured that was the best bet.

The sewing was relatively easy, although I needed help from my mom with the starting and finishing knots.   All I had to do was thread the needle, tie a knot on the end, and then while holding the two tears together, I sewed them using the "spiraling technique" (which was basically an over-under method.) Always make sure to start sewing from the inside of the wetsuit!

The cement is coming in the mail, so once I get it I will show you how I finish the patching process!

LA Surf spots: Surfrider State Beach (a.k.a Malibu point/beach)

There are few surf spots in this world that are as revered or as hated as Malibu beach. Many surfers claim that Malibu is the ideal pointbreak. Others argue that it’s an overcrowded cesspool. What cannot be disputed though, is that Malibu point has seen its fair share of surfing history. From Tom Blake, to Gidget, to Miki Dora and Allen Sarlo, the waves at Malibu have been drawing surfers since the 1920’s. The reasoning for that is simple: the sand and cobblestone bottom is so ideally laid out that it churns out perfectly shaped rights like a machine.
To read the rest please visit: Dailystoke.com

Searching For Waves In Italy

Italy is world-renowned for its history and culture. Every year, millions of tourists visit the land of gastronomical wonders, just to get a taste of the exalted Italian dulce vida. They walk the busy streets of Rome, gaze in astonishment at David, engorge themselves with fresh pasta, and of course, play chicken with the infamous Vespa.

Many of those tourists and foreigners though, are unaware of the fact that Italy, aside from being a bastion of culture, refinement, and indigestion, actually has surf. Within the past twenty years, surf magazines like Surfer have revealed that the Italian coastline does occasionally have decent waves. Yet surfing in Italy is still very much a young sport, and hasn’t (according to the understanding of the global surfing community) really gained much of a following.

To read the rest please visit:

http://www.surfinghandbook.com

I think I'm gonna glow in the dark...

Ah, the first big rain storm of the year. Refreshing, no? Well, for surfers like myself, that first rain storm is more of a giant toxic bane than a invigorating boon. Most breaks in L.A. receive a heavy dosing of pollution after the first large rain, because all of the trash, organic waste, and hazardous chemicals that tends to clog up our sewers and storm drains gets pumped straight into the ocean. Most water treatment plants (like the local Tapia Water Treatment plant) aren't able to handle the extra load, so the only constructive thing they are able to do is wave at the trash as it floats on by them and straight into the ocean. If you need to check the water quality at your local break, go to this site: http://www.publichealth.lacounty.gov/phcommon/public/eh/water_quality/beach_grades.cfm.


Try to avoid turning into a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle from all the runoff, and I will see you in the water!

Malibu Beach

Took this picture Tuesday, "vintage look" courtesy of Parlato Graphic Design Firm

Review: Doc's Proplugs

A few months back, I went to the doctor's office complaining of an earache. The doctor checked out my right ear, then my left, gave me a funny look, and asked if I spent anytime in the ocean. I wanted to say a joke about hunting a white whale, but I let that go, and told her that I was an avid surfer. Turns out that I have the early stages of surfer's ear. Cold water and harsh wind has actually caused bones to grow in my ear canal, and if I don't take care of it now, I may have to get surgery.

The doctor basically said that that I had two options available to help me alleviate my ear issue. I could either a) stop surfing (fat chance) or b) surf with ear plugs. The first plugs I tried were from the pharmacy at Gelsons, and they were an epic fail. That was probably because they cost around $5. So, the next time around I decided to shell out some extra dinero and purchase ear plugs designed for surfers. Doc's pro plugs caught my eye, mainly because that doctor who invented them is actually a surfer (not to mention that Santa Cruz surfer Ken "Skindog" Collins swears by them).

The plugs are shaped to cover the ear canal and the "crest of the helix" (that part of the ear just outside of the ear canal). There is also a tiny hole in each plug, so that you can equalize your ears if necessary with minimal discomfort. The plugs are meant to fit snugly, so that they can minimize water and wind entering the ear canal. With that being said, the plugs come in a variety of sizes and need to be custom fitted to the user's ears. That can be done either via a ear specialist, or you can drop 30$ and purchase a package of four plugs in different sizes (Small, Medium, Large, Extra-Large), to find a plug that fits your ears best.

Field test results: I have used the plugs for a week now, and I will say that they have helped dramatically. Finding the best fit did take some time, but when the water is freezing (last session I actually saw my breath) the ear plugs help minimize the ear ache. They do seem to let some water in when I duck dive, but with further testing and trying different sizes, I think that issue can be resolved.

I will check back in a week or so to give an update on how the plugs are working out!

Will a paddle make me cooler?

To SUP or not to SUP: that is the question. Just like Hamlet, I too have slings and arrows on the mind. Oh, and paddles too. Lately I have been tormented by the "sport" of stand up paddling. For all of you unfamiliar with the preferred pastime of Satan, it involves a surfer utilizing an enormous board, and instead of lying prone and stroking, said surfer remains standing for the entire session, and uses a paddle to slowly chug along. 


Now SUP has been around for awhile, and it has gained quite a following. Before I start attacking the institution, it is important to point out some of its good points. For instance, you can build up your upper body to Laird Hamilton proportions. You can also see approaching sets miles out to sea. And above all, if a shark swims by, the only thing he can nibble on is your paddle and not your feet.

However, my fault with stand up paddling is not with the sport, but with its followers. SUP has become very popular, so much so, that people with little surf experience are picking it up. In other words, individuals who have little understanding of surf etiquette, the ocean, or surfing as a whole are picking up a sport that allows them to dominate a line up; they can see farther out, take off earlier and paddle faster than any non-SUP. All in all, it just isn't fair for anybody else. 


Yet I was hit with a sudden realization on the nature of SUP when I first witnessed the bizarre sight of a skateboarder using a paddle to coast along a sidewalk. That's right, a paddle. Just like Huck Finn. Except there was no raft, no mighty Mississippi, or even... (bad word) Jim. 


Mark Twain aside, the land paddler pointed out a very important attribute of mankind, and that was that we as a society love to make our lives easy. We invented a remote for the T.V. so we didn't have to get up from the couch to change the channel. We invented the microwave so we could make our meals quicker. Hell, we even invented peanut butter and jelly in the same container. Hopefully though, that  latter invention will go the way of other misguided inventions like the helicopter ejection seat or the Snuggie for dogs and just disappear. 


The paddle is just another gimmicky invention designed to make surfing, and now skateboarding, easier. What is important to remember with SUP, and now SUS too, is that the rider should be willing to participate in the sport sans paddle. If they are able to do so, it shows that said rider has a passion for the sport itself, and doesn't need any sort of new fad to keep them skating or surfing. If the rider can't part with the paddle, then he or she must go the way of the dodo, and get hunted down by Europeans and giant rats, because that is what they honestly deserve.

Zuma surf spot review

Three miles of beautiful sand? Check. More barreling peaks than you can shake your stick at? Check.  Summertime crowds so intense it’ll make you wanna dunk your head in a porta-potty? Make that a big fat check. Zuma has it all: great surf, plenty of parking, and actual sunbathing girls. Its sandy shoreline is exposed to nearly every possible swell angle, and the waves can get pretty good from time to time, offering up steep take offs and the occasional barrel.

Location: Heading north on PCH, Zuma is just after Heathercliff Rd., at the bottom of a large hill. The entrance to the parking lot is one the left.

Setup: From the cliff at Big Dume all the way to Broad beach, Zuma is one large beach break. The sandy bottom is constantly shifting with the tides, winds, and waves, so the lineups are always moving and rather spread out.

Swell and tide: Whatever the swell direction, it will most likely break here. Swells from the south or southwest tend to do better, but wests, northwests, and windswells can often work there way in was well. Honestly, Zuma is exposed to everything Neptune can throw her way. However, as with most beach breaks, she will do better with a higher tide, and as much offshore wind as possible.  Most of the time, the waves here are small mushy close outs, but with the right tide, swell, and bottom conditions, Zuma can be downright epic. Keep in mind though, anything overhead (without the ideal conditions) will pretty much close out.

Access: Well, you can pay to park in the parking lot, or you can park right on PCH. Most of the year there is more parking here than at Disneyland. Summer time though, is a completely different story. Once the Valley heats up to a million degrees, everybody heads over to Zuma to cool down. So, if you’re planning on visiting Zuma during the summer, just be prepared for every vehicle registered in the greater San Fernando Valley to be parked there.

Pros: When its good, Zuma can look like a mini Pipeline. Moreover, there’s plenty of parking, and the line-ups are so spread out that you rarely ever have to share a wave.

Cons:  Well, most of the time Zuma is less-than-stellar. Any onshore wind will create close outs galore, and Zuma is totally exposed to even the slightest breeze. And did I mention that it gets absolutely insane during the summer time? On a serious note, the waves can get pretty heavy here, and people do get hurt from time to time.

Surf fact: Oh nothing really all that interesting. Well, except for the fact that the famous statue of liberty scene from the Planet of the Apes was filmed at Big Dume. Oh and thousands of other movies, TV shows and commercials have been filmed there too. All in all, nothing interesting has ever really happened there. 

Can pretty girls surf?

 Surfing is a male dominated sport. A statement like that is not easily contested, especially when most line-ups around the world have a pretty uneven ratio of board shorts to bikinis. Lets face it, even the pages of Surfer display this sort male centered mindset, as article after article discusses the trials and tribulations of Jordy Smith or Joel Parkinson, while relegating the fairer sex to showing off their derrières in Reef ads.

Keep in the mind though, that there is no doubt that women can surf. There are magazines, clothing companies, gear, and even a portion of the ASP tour relegated solely for women. Heck, even Gidget got her own movie. Nevertheless, when it comes down to it, men tend to have more say in the surfing community than women do. That is simply because most of the big name surfers throughout all of surfing history have been men, and not women. Whether it was Laird Hamilton at Teahupoo in 2000, or Duke Kahanamoku at the turn of the century, men have been at the focal point of this sport. This concept inherently implies that men have committed more to surfing then women have, and thus also inferring that men have more surfing talent then women do, partially explaining the attitude of male surfers around the world. With that being said, can women come to influence surfing as much as men do?

That answer lies with a girl named Maya Gabeira. A native of Ipanema, Brazil, Maya began surfing when she was fourteen. She is now twenty-three, and is credited with riding the biggest wave ever surfed by a woman (a fifty-foot bomb at Dungeons South Africa). She has won the Billabong XXL award four years in a row, surfed at many of the major big wave spots around the world, and to top it off, she is incredibly beautiful. So there you have it, pretty girls can not only surf, they can surf better then most men can. It may be a stretch, but it is entirely possible that a woman like Maya (or another talented female surfer like Layne Beachley) could make the next big splash in the surfing world.  While the surfing community will undoubtedly remain male dominated in the near future, women like Maya Gabeira will hopefully secure women the respect the fairer sex deserves in the line up. 

Tiburon, Tiburon...

On August 10th, Mr. Chuck Patterson took his SUP out at San Onofre State Beach, and using a Go-Pro camera, recorded two juvenile Great White sharks circling his board. One was approximately 7 feet, the other was about 9 feet. Keep in mind that these are not full grown sharks.


Today I checked Sharkresearchcommittee.com, which is a site that is dedicated to tracking shark sightings up and down the Pacific Coast. The reports are made by common folks; surfers, beach goers, spongers (i.e. shark bait), and fishermen. They are usually all the same: so-and-so was chilling in the water, or walking on the beach, then he or she saw a large black fin, promptly pooped their pampers and ran to the nearest lifeguard station. Every now and then you get a dedicated waterman (or woman) who accurately notes the length, size, and type of shark that they witness, and somehow during the whole event they manage to take a stellar National Geographic style photograph or vid.


However, when I read this site, what "chums my water" the most are the reports that are made at beaches that I've surfed before. Like El Porto, or Sunset, or even Big Dume. Then I think about all of those times that I have been sitting alone--in murky water mind you--and I wonder if maybe a juvenile whitey was lurking below, contemplating whether or not he should give me his version of a Facebook poke. Just for the readers personal knowledge, the whitey poke is often quickly followed by painful defriending.


Ah, but sharks have been in the ocean long before I started surfing, and they will be there even at the end of the world (when they grow legs and begin attacking people on land). We are only guests in their realm, and we must show them respect. Not to mention that those sharp-toothed locals are often more afraid of us then we are of them. So, all in all, be cool to whitey. With that being said though, if you see a cute seal in a Kevlar vest, show your respect by getting the hell out of the water.  


Here's the link to Mr. Patterson's video: http://www.surfline.com/video/locals/great-whites-off-san-o_46403

Here's to you Ahab... and Guinness

Well, Hollywood may not get surfers, but the limey film industry sure does. Thankfully, nobody was eaten by a white whale during the filming of this commercial. Click the link to watch: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U3JEORDUEqc

Da Cat got your tongue?

Some have labeled him as an icon of the rebellious attitude of the 1960's, while others just think he was an selfish asshole.
Mickey "Da Cat" Dora was an eccentric man to say the least. While he contributed a great deal towards the progression of the sport of surfing (such as being one of the first surfers to use a pintail board), Da Cat is much better known for his outlandish behavior. For instance, Mickey had a knack for stealing anything that wasn't bolted to the ground. He also spent a good eal of time in prison for a large scale credit card scam. His actions in the water though, were what made him famous. Like a pit-helmeted explorer picking off leeches from his own ass, Mickey relished in relieving Surfrider's lineup from bothersome kooks.

His coup de grace of course though was his famous "exposure" during a Malibu surf contest. During the 1967 Malibu Invitational Surf Classic, Mickey took off on a wave, slid beautifully down the line, and when he passed the tower where the judges were residing, he dropped his shorts and mooned the crowed. That was the last time Da Cat would ever participate in a contest.

However, his whole attitude of burning kooks like a kid shooting cans with a b.b. gun has somehow integrated itself into the attitude of Malibu point. Burn somebody in the line up, and there's a good chance you will not be making the next wave. I experienced that once myself, as one pendejo literally shoved me off a wave (though it retrospect he did have the right away). Malibu is an amazing wave that has the unfortunate luck of being located next to a urban sprawl of several million people. Da Cat said that he punished kooks because he had a right, and after spending a good deal of time in the water myself, I can understand what he meant. I too have felt that urge to smack some kook as he completely burned me on his brand new SUP in total and blissful ignorance.

However, that sort of aggression goes completely against the idea of surfing. Surfing is an artistic escape. Why should anything that positive be tainted by anger? Yes, it can be frustrating in a line up full of folks unaware of the code, but angry reprisals are disrespectful to not only the surfing community, but to the ocean as well.

Though Dora will live on at Malibu as long as there are both waves and people, do try and have compassion for that poor Val or kook when your surfing First Point. Who knows? Maybe whitey will witness your selfless act and decide to eat a surf Nazi instead of you.

Leo Carrillo Surf Spot Review

If you’ve ever seen the movie Gidget, this is the beach where Moondoggie, Kahuna, and their posse of fellow surf bums debunked the man by riding waves all day. And they had the right idea, because once you see Leo Carrillo (a.k.a Secos, or Arroyo Sequit Point, or Cobra Kai dojo hang out) pumping, you’ll also feel the urge to grab your single fin log, quit your day job, and play a ukulele all day long like a typical cliché Hollywood surfer.

Location: Driving north from Malibu on PCH, about a mile before the county line between L.A. and Ventura. Just across the highway from the entrance to Leo Carrillo State Park.

Setup: Leo is your classic right point that begins around a large group of rocks. There is a small creek which empties between those rocks and the main point, and it brings with it a healthy assortment of sand and cobblestone, which is then deposited along the ocean bottom to create an ideal point break (once the swell is present mind you). However, unlike its supermodel cousin Malibu point, girl next door Leo’s usually not that great, as it needs a good bit of energy to get it working.

Swell and tide: If the swell is from the south or south west, Secos will turn its raw energy into a work of art, like a sculptor creating a statue from stone. On a summertime swell, the sets at Leo can be ridiculously perfect (watch some of the surf scenes in Gidget to see what I am aiming at). Large wests or northwests can also do their magic here too. Once the swell hits overhead, the initial take off zone by the rocks moves outside, to a spot known as Primos. Incoming tides and offshore wind will only further improve wave quality.

Access: You can park along PCH, or you can park at the Leo Carrillo State Park for genuine American greenbacks.

Pros: With the right south swell and offshore breeze, surfing at Leo is like traveling back in time to 1959 and stepping into the shoes of the great Miki Dora. Also, you can camp, fish, and dive there as well.

Cons: I love Secos, so it pains me to say this, but it does have its fair share of negative points. First off, it’s usually flat. And when it isn’t flat, the line up can be as tense as the O.K. Corral. Whoever sits closest to the main takeoff rock will get priority on the wave, and it is so tight, that two longboarders (or there equivalent of four shortboarders) working together can literally take over this entire spot.

Surf fact: Despite the fact that the novel took place at Malibu Beach, the movie Gidget was filmed at Secos. Miki Dora was the surfing double for James Darren’s character Moondoggie, and Mickey Munoz donned a bikini and blond wig as Sandra Dee’s character Francie Lawrence a.k.a Gidget.

Staircase/Heavens Surf spot review

With such descriptive names, one would think Heavens was an idyllic surfer’s paradise (complete with 12 foot barrels and sunbathing Victoria Secret models), and that Staircase actually had a staircase, but alas, the names are kind of misleading. Heavens is unfortunately supermodel free, and there are no stairs at Staircase. To top it off, these spots are mostly flat during the year. However, when the North Bay is hit by a large SW or NW swell, and every single spot between County Line and Malibu point is literally chock-full of neoprene and fiberglass, these two breaks will act as a sort of safe haven for crowd weary locals looking to score a few waves.

Location: If you are driving north from Malibu on PCH, Heavens will be just after Secos, and Staircase will be just before County Line. Heavens is actually easy to miss, as it is part of the Leo Carrillo State Park, and does not have any “direct” access from PCH. Staircase is less than a ¼ mile before County Line, and it has a dirt parking lot with a trail that leads down from the highway to the water.

Setup: Both breaks are point/beach breaks. Staircase offers mostly rights with the occasional (but very short) left. Be prepared to take off late, as the waves often lack power. Heavens is a much faster wave that can offer a rather steep take off. Both rights and lefts can be found on the menu, and the occasional barrel is not unheard of.

Swell and tide: SW or NW. Most of these times these breaks are flat, with Secos and County offering much better waves. However when swell is somewhere between waist high to double overhead, these spots will begin to break. On a medium tide, with a decent sized swell, one can score relatively empty waves even when other breaks are crowded.

Access: Staircase has a parking lot, which requires dinero. You can park at Leo Carrillo and walk over to Heavens, or you can park on PCH, and use one of the trails to climb down to the water.

Pros: When the swell and tide are spot on, you can catch some nicely shaped waves with relatively few people in the water. Great spot for beginners as well.

Cons: Though the waves can be good, usually there’s nothing.

Surf fact: Heavens is part of Leo Carrillo State Beach, which was named after the famous actor Leopoldo Antonio Carrillo. Also, the beach is used for a lot of movies, like “The Karate Kid,” “Point Break,” and “The Usual Suspects.”

County Line Surf Spot Review

While not actually on the county line between Ventura and LA, this spot acts like the DMZ (minus the landmines), officially demarcating surfwise where the land of sun and botox ends, and the realm of oil derricks and strawberries begins. That point aside, no matter what the conditions are, you will always find someone surfing County Line. That’s because there is almost always something surfable there, even when it’s no bigger than an ankle slapper.

Location: Coming north from Malibu on PCH, you can’t miss it. It is right along the highway near the Ventura/LA county line. If you do miss it, you’re probably as blind as Mr. Magoo and shouldn’t be driving.

Setup: At the north end of the beach is point/reef break that offers up a fast peaky right. There is also a short left, but be prepared to share your wave (and board) with the local rocks. At the south end of the beach is mysto-spot 600 yards from shore known as “County Line Bambora,” and it only breaks when the swell is f-ing large. In between the two spots is a collection of constantly shifting but very fun beachbreaks.

Swell and tide: Whether it is south, northwest, or anything in between, any swell from the great Pacific will break here. Often times, County will be bigger than most spots to the south when the waves are fickle. The beachbreaks are better on a high tide, while the reef/point at the north end is better on a low tide.

Access: Park on PCH, or in the dirt lot at the north end of the beach.

Pros: Consistent, reliable, and often times pretty fun. The shifting beachbreaks tends to keep the line up spread out.

Cons: Due to its location, Vals and Thousand Dokies tend to flock here, so it is usually crowded with a rather diverse skill level of surfers. It also can blow out rather easily, and has a tendency to look bigger than it actually is.

Surf fact: Neptune’s Net is right across from County Line and has some great seafood. It is also used in a lot of movies; so don’t be surprised if you see Johnny Utah or the Big Wednesday crew munching on some crab legs.

Surf session 009

Time: 11:00-12:15
Location: Staircase
Water: Still really cold
Swell: Same size as yesterday, about 1-3 SSW
Board: 6.0 Thruster

Had a lot of pent up emotions from the previous day, so I made a note to try and burn it all away with a nice hard surf. Staircase was pretty small, and the four other guys that were out were not doing much at all. But I worked hard, and I have to say, all those mushy wave sessions at El Porto sure have paid off. While the other guys were only riding straight for a couple of seconds, I would take off, pump hard, and use the close outs to launch off the lip. I have to say, it felt pretty damn good to be ripping again, five weeks without any waves or skating was a quite a bit of a trial. Looking forward to heading out again and working hard on my tricks.

Surf session 008

Time: 10:30-12:00
Location: County Line
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: 1-3 feet SSW
Water: Chilly as shit

Went out for a session with Chase up at County Line. The water was bloody cold, but the waves were somewhat decent. My surf compatriot was a bit down on being out in the water, so I had to encourage him a bit. Anyway, it was nice to actually have some company for once, and he did have a few funny jokes. Like my personal favorite, "Why do strippers make so much money at Indian Casinos? Because they make it rain!" I had a pretty good laugh at that one.

Surf session 007

Time: 10:10-11:20
Location: Malibu Third point
Swell: 1-2 occasional 3+ SSW
Water: Fairly warm

Been pretty tired lately. Folks are out of town, and I have to walk the dogs in the morning, and they wake up really early. 6:00 isn't fun, but I am kind of getting used to it. Took my 6.0 out to third point, and I wasn't the only one on a shortboard out there. Bunch of kids were ripping pretty nicely out there, which served as a potent reminder of the excellent wave quality that Malibu embodies. Zuma is about the same size at this time, but it has been so mushy lately that it closes in three seconds flat. So, despite the shitty wave quality, Malibu was actually pretty fun and I was able to rip it up on a few really nice waves.

See you out in the water!

Surf session 006

Time: 9:45-11:15
Board: 9.0 Becker pintail
Swell: 1-3 SSW
Water: Not so bad, wore my 3.2 so no complaints.

Some of my friends do not surf Malibu. I, on the other hand, love the spot. Aside from the usual excellent wave quality, the place is never boring. There is just so much to entertain you at Malibu. Whether its the eccentric surfers, the exotic cars, or Malibu Carl himself, this spot has quite a bit of excitement to offer. In fact, today was one of those extra special days that reminded why I love Malibu so dearly.

I pulled into the parking lot, and unfortunately, had to use the electronic parking machine. I anticipated this, and brought the $8 for parking. I put $7 in the machine, and for some odd reason, it would not accept the last bill. Just as I was starting to check my pockets for change, the machine notified me it was printing a ticket.

The ticket ended up being a notification that I had insufficient funds. To top it of, the machine also took my $7.

When I paddled out into the water, the swell was decent. It was on the small side, but as always the shape was alright. By the end of my session the waves had started to close out, but otherwise the session surf wise went very well.

However, as I was in the water I bumped into a friend of mine that I had not seen since the 6th grade. I had no idea where he went to school, where he lived, or even that he surfed. His face had changed a bit, as had his voice (obviously), but once Alex Popper said his name, I recognized him instantly.

We talked for a good hour or so, caught a few waves, and then told one another that we would meet up sometime next week to surf. I walked back to my car around 11:00 or so, and feeling rather content with myself, I packed my gear and hopped into my car.

Unfortunately, that feeling of content went away pretty quickly.

I pulled up to the light by the Malibu Inn to make a U-turn, when all of a sudden I heard sirens. A large semi coming the opposite way pulled over in front of Jack-in-the-Box, and it was quickly followed by a number of police cars. The policia jumped out of their cars, Beretta's and shotguns at the ready. "Driver show me your hands!" they kept saying over and over again, as they slowly started to surround the car. All of this happened 15 yards away from me, and all I kept thinking was: "please, if there is a shoot out, God don't let me die in front of Jack in the Box."

I made it down to Topanga canyon, and was able to get home, though the drive was an hour longer then I had originally anticipated. But anyway, once again Malibu reminded me that much like the beautiful city of angels, surfing here can be very entertaining.

Surf session 005

Time: 11:10-12:15
Location: Staircase
Board: 6.0 Kennedy Thruster
Swell: SSW/wind swell approx. 3-4 occasional shoulder high set.
Water: Air temp 62, so the water was very chilly!

With work and my ear issue, I wasn't able to catch the big July 4th swell at its peak (approx. overhead). However, I lucked out and managed to paddle out today, and fortunately was able to catch the tail end of the so called "epic" swell. Staircase was relatively empty, and when I pulled up there were only four guys in the line up. The lulls in between the sets were pretty long, but when they did arrive, there were some pretty fun shoulder high waves. Haven't rode my 6.0 since before my Europe trip, but I got back into the swing of things pretty quickly out there. Pulled a nice cutback and a few off the lips. Sure felt good to be ripping again.

Wore my earplugs today, and I think they worked pretty well. I am still getting used to them, but I know that for the long run they can only help. I will say though, that with everything being so quiet, I was able to concentrate a bit more on my surfing. I couldn't hear any one talking, and the sounds of the waves were muffled. The only noise I could really hear was the sound of the water lapping up against my board. It was very serene to say the least.

On a bad note, the cost to park in the parking lot has gone up to $8. In addition to that, they got rid of the old ghetto deposit box, and replaced it with a brand new electronic ticket dispenser (which conveniently does not give any change back). Because of the no change deal, and the fact that costs $8, I will be parking my car on the side of the road. I hate to say it though, most folks will follow my lead (if they already haven't been doing that), thus potentially causing some future parking or police issues. The cops on PCH are already touchy as it is, so this parking situation probably will not help.

Surf session 004

I'll be honest, I have been little bad, as I have not recorded several of my surf sessions. However, I have a little fresh start since I have been gone for 5 weeks on the other side of the pond, so I will start with my most recent surf session.

Malibu Second/Third point
10:15-11:35
Kennedy 8.0 Pintail

Getting over my ear problem, so since the doc told me to wear ear plugs, I decided that the best way for me to get wet while keeping my ears dry was to head down to Malibu and ride my 8.0 named "Paulina." That board absolutely shines whenever I ride her at Malibu, (her thick rails and glassed in sidebitters were shaped in mind for those long, gently peeling walls) and it feels like I have been transported back in time to the 70's or an earlier time before the squashtail surfboard. Unlike my Becker, she doesn't ride like a log, even though she looks like one. That board is definitely something special. Anyway, surf was about 1-3 and somewhat crowded, but it was still fun, and it brought back a lot of good memories.

Finding surf in Sicily

Finding surf in Sicily is not easy. Being that it is an island in the middle of the Mediterranean, I had this preconception that as soon as our train hit the coast I would be seeing some evidence of surf. Alas, there was nothing. Much like the rest of Italy (I traveled from the coast of Tuscany, south to the Amalfi region, and now into Sicily), the region is unpredictable surf wise. I was told Levanto had surf 140 days of the year, and Palermo (capital of Sicily) had surf some 200 days of the year. However, unlike here in Los Angeles, one can't just roll up to a local spot and expect their to be waves, because it actually requires a bit of hunting. Storm patterns are random and short lived, giving only a small window for potentially surf-able waves. In other words, if you are like myself, and have little knowledge of the local beaches, weather patterns, and above all the language, finding any rideable waves within Italy or Sicily is no walk in the park.

However, it was an interesting experience wave hunting in Sicily, mainly because telling people I was "surfer" and not a "windsurfer" caused quite a bit of confusion. For you see, Palermo and the majority of Sicily is well known as a prime spot for windsurfing. Strong onshore/offshore winds are a relative constant factor, and because of that, the sport of windsurfing is immensely popular.

Yet, aside from a couple of locals wearing "Bear" surf shirts and Quiksilver boardshorts (thank god Quiksilver does not make speedos), surf culture in northern Sicily is not as strong as it was in beautiful Levanto.

Hopefully, when I return to Italy in the future, I will be able to score a few waves. For now though, I will have to make do with my waveless memories of delicious spaghetti with tuna eggs , topless beaches (no joke!), and the bluest ocean water I have ever seen.

Surf in Italy

I am currently on vacation in northern Italy, in a very beautiful coastal town named Levanto. While I was aware that there was some surf in Italy (albeit fairly minor), I was honestly surprised to find out that this little centro apparently has surf 150 days out of the year. While walking to dinner, my girlfriend and I stumbled upon a surf shop (yes, with actual surfboards) called "Brothers Surfhouse." The young guy working there informed me that this town was one of the better surf destinations in Italy, as it is situated perfectly to catch large southern swells. While he said the surf was often fickle, apparently two days before our arrival the local spot was breaking at about two meters. Sounds like I just missed it, and it definitely warrants a surf trip in the near future!

Surf Session 003

Saturday May 15

Time: In the water at 10:30

Location: Staircase: Just south of County Line

I was in the water for a little over an hour and a half, the whole area was incredibly crowded, as the weather was pretty nice, and we had a nice swell crossing up from the N and SSW. About waist to shoulder high on the best sets, water was fairly chilly with a slight onshore breeze. Really fun day, only a handful of guys in the line up, was able to get a number of really nice rides. Rode my usual board, 6.0 Kennedy thruster, and despite it being a beachbreak board (my main board for El Porto), it still handles superbly at a pointbreak like Staircase. Worked on my cutbacks, and on pulling harder snapbacks. The larger sets tended to closeout, so the waves helped me in getting a little speed to launch off the lip. On a funny note, saw a very friendly seal, and sat next to two guys from Norway. In all honesty, I had no idea they even had surf there.

Overall, a great session

Surf session 002

Went out today at around 11:00 or so. Only a quick session, because I had to take pictures for my photo project. It was about knee high at best, but lots of guys out, including a few who were popping some mean airs. Overall was a good, but short, session.

Surf session 001

Friday at 11:30

WNW groundswell at about 2-3 feet with occasional 4 footer. Mostly mushy closeouts, but still pretty fun. Water temp is still pretty chilly, and there was a steady onshore wind during the session. Only about 20 or so guys out, including a very friendly Australian guy. Ended up surfing just past 45th street, but then drifted down in front of the Oil refinery. Thankfully, the sand has opened back up, and you can walk from one end of the beach to the other. Friendly dolphins were also out, though one in particular seemed a bit too friendly. Overall was a good session.

Stefan

Surf Session

Surf sessions: I will be recording every surf session, with details on time of day, surf conditions, and events that may have occured.

Sincerely,

Stefan Slater

Review: Solarez

This will be an ongoing process concerning my personal preference for the easiest/quickest way to fix digs:

When it comes to any form of repairs or construction, I'll be honest, I am no Bob Vila (Yes I actually know who he is). However, with that being said, I recently gathered up the courage to try and repair the dings on my 6.0 thruster. Until now, I usually took my busted boards to my local shop (Kennedy's), paid around $20 or so, and then waited for my beloved board to be returned to me. Yet I will be entering the real world shortly (meaning employment), and because of that, I've needed to budget my funds appropriately. So, like every other manly man surfer in California, I will be fixing my dings on my own.

For my first go on fixing my board, I tried Solarez. Solarez is a "fiberfill UV-Cure polyester resin," and it is designed to be an easy/efficient manner to fix dings, especially for (gifted) individuals such as myself. The process is relatively simple and begins with the individual identifying the area in need of repair (duh), then roughening the damaged area, and then placing a small amount of the resin (in the shade mind you) on said area. The instructions also suggest placing a bit of plastic on top of the resin, so that you can smooth it out with your fingers, but I have gotten away with not doing it all. Finally, once the area is properly covered, bring your board into direct sunlight, and presto, in 30 seconds the gunk should turn as hard as a rock.

Final decision:

The stuff is very easy to use, but it can be a bit messy and stinky (the smell is comparable to immersing your head in a bucket of kerosene). Also, the finished product can look a bit rough, and though it can fix and cover a ding, the material is still pretty sensitive, so treat your board like the special lady she is and be gentle with her. In addition, the stuff only works in direct sunlight, so cloudy days can ruin your chance for repair relatively quickly. All in all though, Solarez is a great alternative to duck tape, and I will be using it on my boards for whenever I have a minor ding to fix.

Pollution in the bay

Pollution is a word that is synonymous with Los Angeles. From our brilliant brown skyline to our traffic-choked freeways, most people have come to associate our city with some form of nasty pollution. As a surfer and a diver, I have seen what Los Angeles County’s 5,000-mile storm drain system is capable of emptying into the Pacific Ocean, and trust me, it isn’t pretty. I have seen everything from beer cans, to tires, to clothes and yes, even a condom or two. Once, and I am still not sure how it got there, I had the distinct pleasure of swimming next to a headless chicken. For a while, I thought she might have died trying to escape from a KFC cargo ship, but alas, I will never know.

I thought I had seen it all, but during a recent surf session at El Porto Beach, I saw something that sparked my curiosity. It was a package floating in the water, and upon closer inspection, it turned out to be package of kitchen gloves – from Korea. Had that little piece of trash really floated across the entire Pacific Ocean? Or did a Korean fisherman get careless when he was doing the dishes? Either way, it reminded me once again that our oceans have been considered by many to be one giant refuse pile. In fact, according to the Surfrider Foundation, in some areas of the Pacific, plastic particles outnumber plankton by six to one.

How does this trash get in the ocean? Well, most of it comes from storm drains that are clogged with trash and organic waste. According to the L.A. County Department of Public Works, Los Angeles water treatment plants generally treat and clean 100 million gallons of contaminated water and debris each day from storm drains. But when it rains, the county’s storm drains can generate close to 10 billion gallons of polluted water, and most of the time the city’s treatment plants can’t handle the additional load. For instance, each month, it is estimated that one million cigarette butts are dropped on the ground, and each one of those will most likely end up in a storm drain, and later on, in the ocean. In fact, as of 2009, according to Heal the Bay (an organization that works for clean water), Los Angeles County has the worst water quality of any county in the state of California.

In addition, it was recently stated by Heal the Bay that the Scattergood and El Segundo power plants, which are adjacent to El Porto and are located only 15 minutes from LMU, are negatively affecting the surrounding waters. In order to keep their machinery from overheating, the power plants use a process known as OTC (once-through cooling). The plants suck in cold seawater to cool their equipment, and then expel the hot water into the nearby ocean. An unfortunate amount of animals tend to get sucked up into the plant (as of yet, no surfers have been sucked in), and the water that is expelled is believed to negatively affect the local ecosystem by raising the average ocean temperature.

The call for environmental concern has become particularly strong in these recent years, especially here on campus. However, the need to save polar bears and prevent global warming may seem rather distant to our everyday life here at LMU. Yet, if a student really wants to take time out of their day to enact environmental change, there is much that can be done to benefit the greatest natural resource closest to our campus: the Pacific Ocean. By doing something as simple as picking up your trash, you are preventing further pollution to our oceans, and thus saving some hapless surfer from sharing his surf session with the remnants of someone’s lunch – or afternoon delight.

Surfin' LA: The history of surfing in Los Angeles

One of the best features that LMU offers is that the beautiful Pacific Ocean lies only 15 minutes away. It is also key that LMU resides in the heart of the surfing world: Los Angeles. Aside from having access to substantial surf resources, surfers at LMU stand as a testament to the rich surfing history Los Angeles embodies. However, to best understand the surfing opportunities available at LMU, you have to start at the beginning, before the age of Bodhi and Johnny Utah, with a man named George Freeth.

Back in 1907, Los Angeles was having a bit of trouble. While the city was growing, public transportation couldn’t keep up. However, the railroad tycoon Henry Huntington came up with a way to boost ticket sales for his rail lines. After reading accounts by Jack London regarding the surfing exploits of Freeth and his buddies at Waikiki, he decided to invite the surfing legend to Los Angeles to put on a demonstration. Hundreds of people crowded the beach at Venice to watch Freeth ride waves, thus making him the first man to ever surf in L.A.

Following Freeth’s show, surfing started to grow in popularity in L.A., and the first surfing competition was held at Malibu beach in 1928. The first surfing club, the Palos Verdes Surf Club, was started in 1935. However, surfing didn’t really take hold in Los Angeles, or anywhere else for that matter, until after World War II. New materials such as fiberglass and polyurethane transformed the clumsy and heavy wooden surfboards of Freeth’s day into the longboards we see today. L.A. locals such as Bob Simmons and Matt Kivlin were some of the first to produce these boards. Later on, Dale Velzy is credited with opening the supposed first surf shop in Manhattan Beach in 1949.

Popular surf culture also got some help from Hollywood, as countless surf movies (such as Gidget) spread the concept of surfing as a lifestyle throughout the world.

Moving on from the history lesson, it should by now be pretty obvious that LMU has access to some decent surf. While there are plenty of spots to choose from, the ones I will list are all within a short drive of LMU, the closest one being El Porto.

Located at the beginning of El Segundo (right at 45th street), El Porto is a bit of a wave magnet. A deep undersea trench lying just off shore acts as a funnel for any swell pointing in the general direction of Southern California. While this place is small, the waves are generally smaller and mushy, and it serves as a great place for beginners to learn how to surf. However, with the right north swell, this spot can offer up some mean barrels and harsh closeouts. So, if you’re just learning, make sure to avoid the days when the waves look like they could sink an oil tanker. There is also a lot of parking available, and while crowds can be a negative factor, this break is one of the more consistent spots near LMU.

North of the 105 are a number of decent spots mostly similar to El Porto, such as Venice and Santa Monica, and it should be noted that the beach by the Santa Monica Pier does offer lessons for beginners. These spots are generally all beach breaks, so in order for them to be good, the swell must be a bit on the smaller side and crossed up, and the wind factor is only good when it is offshore.

Further north are the famous Malibu and Topanga beaches, and though they are often crowded, they offer world-class rights with a decent summer south swell (or occasional west or northwest swell). South of El Porto are mostly similar beach breaks, such as Manhattan and Redondo, and while they can be good, once they break over six feet they tend to close out.However, Manhattan is home to many surf contests and a surfing museum, so while the waves may not appear all that good, they can, in fact, break pretty nicely with the right swell (west, south or northwest). Los Angeles has a long history with the sport of surfing, and LMU is lucky to have access to a substantial amount of surf resources. So get out there and enjoy the water!

Best Beaches in North America

The beaches in North America are truly one of a kind. That’s because no other region on earth has beaches quite as famous or as popular. For example, the entire continent offers every kind of beach imaginable, ranging from the wild and dangerous Kodiak Island in Alaska, to the pounding surf of Playa Higuero in Puerto Rico, to the exhibitory lifestyle of Haulover Beach in Miami, and the excellent fishing and camping of the Outer Banks. On that note, this guide will point out some of the more well-known and pristine beaches in North America.

Off the beaten path…

If you’re looking for a little adventure, and don’t mind venturing into the wild, then Alaska’s Kodiak Island is definitely for you. The island has several wonderfully isolated beaches, like Buskin beach, where a camper can fish for salmon, watch Kodiak bears feeding, and go kayaking with whales all in the same day! However, if dealing with bears sounds a bit too dangerous, then Canada’s Vancouver Island might be just right for you. While the island is completely covered in lush pine forests and offers every sort of outdoor activity ranging from surfing, fishing, whale watching, and even skiing, the island does also have some very quaint coastal towns. For example, the small local town of Tofino has earned the nickname “Canada’s surf city”, for its proximity to beautiful beaches like Cox bay or Wickaninish and for its overall “laid back” vibe. The flora and fauna in the area are remarkable, and while the water is cold, the fishing is fantastic!

Surfs up!

North America as a whole has some of the best, and most crowded, surf in the world. If you are feeling the need to get barreled, then check out the Outer Banks in North Carolina, where the local beach breaks offer up epic waves for a hundred miles up and down the coast. Malibu beach, otherwise known as Surfrider state beach in Southern California, is an excellent right point break that has been at the center of surfing culture in the U.S. for decades. South of the border, the dangerous Puerto Escondido in Oaxaca, Mexico is commonly known as the “Mexican Pipeline”, and its deadly barrels have claimed countless boards and can easily reach heights of 20 feet or more! A more gentler wave, but equally as popular, is Playa Higuero in Puerto Rico, where surfers from around the world come to relax, immerse themselves in the local culture, and of course, surf.

The City Life

For those who want to soak up the sun and lay out on the sand, but don’t have much interest in surfing or hiking through the wild of Alaska, a beach closer to civilization might be perfect for you. Santa Monica is an excellent little getaway for a family vacation, as there is quite a bit to do. The local Santa Monica pier has a several bars and restaurants, and not to mention a theme park with a roller coaster and Ferris wheel. The local area, such as 3rd street, which is only a short distance away from the actual pier, offers great shopping, eating, and much more. It also goes without saying, that the local Santa Monica beach is great to just hang out, catch some rays, and watch some of the unique people that call Southern California home. However, if you want a little more racier atmosphere, Miami’s South Beach, is located right next to the famous Ocean drive, has a party reputation that is known throughout the world. Overall, while there are many beaches to visit in North America, these select few are some of the ones that can’t be missed.

Best Beaches in Florida

Florida has some of the most popular and untouched beaches in the United States. Of Florida’s 1,800 miles of coastline, 1,200 miles of it are beautiful sand beaches, and their overall unsullied and picturesque nature easily convey why Florida has earned the nickname: The Sunshine State. Some of the most famous beaches in the world, ranging from South Beach to Daytona Beach, can be found in Florida, and millions of tourists come to the state every year to visit them. This guide will point out some of most noted and exquisite beaches throughout the entire state.

Atlantic Coast Beaches

Home to several renowned beaches, the east coast of Florida is a top tourist destination. Beginning with the quaint and historic town of St. Augustine, the nearby Anastasia State park (which is located on a small island) is a rather remarkable beach that also serves as a 1,700-acre bird sanctuary. Fishing and beach volleyball are very popular there, as is camping and hiking. While the surf is pretty poor, visitors can try out kayaking and windsurfing instead. Of course, it’s impossible to mention the East coast of Florida and not talk about Daytona Beach! Nicknamed the “world’s most famous beach,” Daytona Beach stretches for 24 miles, and is a favorite for spring breakers and driving enthusiasts (the Daytona 500 takes place here). There is also a very popular boardwalk that has all sorts of distractions, ranging from shopping, eating, arcades, bars and more; you name it, the boardwalk has it. You can surf near the Main Street Pier, but watch out for people bungee jumping off the pier!

Gulf Coast Beaches

While Panama City gets pretty crowded with spring breakers, the rest of the panhandle is fairly quiet. Ft. Walton beach is part of the so-called “Emerald Coast”, and has dozens of quaint Victorian style beach cottages for rent; though keep in mind they are right along side several-million-dollar-homes! In addition, Pensacola beach, located on Santa Rosa Island, is an interesting beach community that has an abundance of restaurants, shops, and nightclubs. However, if you’re looking for little more peace and quiet, Gulf Islands National Seashore has sparkling white sand and is home to hundreds of species of marine birds. Finally, the infamous Panama City is being called the “new Miami”, and while the beaches are spectacular, be advised that it is a prime destination for wild and crazy party-seeking college kids during spring break.

Miami Beaches

The Miami area tends to speak for itself. This trendy city has some racy beaches, such as the notorious South Beach. Located alongside Ocean drive, the area is great for swimming, shopping, catching some sun, and of course, people watching. The surf can actually get very good here, but a word to the wise, when the waves are pumping, the line up can be a bit hostile. If you get sunburned, or you’re simply tired of looking at palm trees and supermodels, the surrounding area has some amazing architecture, and boasts an incredible nightlife and art scene. If you’re drawn to a beach that is a little more serene, check out Bill Baggs Cape Beach. Here you’ll find decent surf and a lower key atmosphere than you will in Miami (i.e. not topless). The beaches of the sunshine state are truly remarkable, and it would be a shame not to visit them.